2010 Varner "Three Blocks-Spring Ridge Vineyard" Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

SKU #1141898 94 points Antonio Galloni

 The 2010 Pinot Noir Three Blocks is gorgeous. Interestingly, it is quite different than the single-vineyard Pinots the Varners make under the Neely label, even though those wines are the components for the Varner bottling. Dark cherries, tar, licorice and menthol flow from this large-scaled, voluptuous Pinot. The gamy notes found in some of the Neely Pinots are mysteriously absent in this super-finessed, classy Pinot from Jim and Bob Varner. Drinking window: 2015 - 2025. Brothers Bob and Jim Varner are two of the most unassuming, humble winemakers in California. They don't need to say much. The wines take care of that themselves. These are some of the most beautiful, striking Chardonnays and Pinots readers will come across. Best of all, prices remain exceedingly fair by California standards considering the quality of what goes into the bottle...The 2010 Pinots are also outstanding. Leaf pulling is not a common practice here, so the fruit was not excessively exposed to the late season heat spikes. The Varner and Neely Pinots are fermented in steel, an unusual practice that probably explains why the wines retain so much freshness. After two months in steel, the wines spent a year in barrel followed by a year in bottle prior to being released. Like all Varner/Neely wines, the Pinots are made with indigenous yeasts and handled minimally throughout their elevage. As a reminder, the Varners make wines under three labels; Varner, Neely and Foxglove, all reviewed separately here.  (7/ 2013)

K&L Notes

Yeah! The new Varner Pinots are here, which to us is like every fun holiday rolled into one. The cool 2010 vintage at Varner's Spring Ridge Vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains experienced milder heat spikes than other parts of California. (The vineyard is just 10 miles from the ocean and is sustainably dry-farmed.) This wine blends fruit from the estate's three blocks--Hidden Block (40%), Picnic Block (30%) and Upper Picnic Block (30%), and it's a beautiful, resonant blend that will age wonderfully and, considering the quality of wine in the bottle, it's reasonably priced too.

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Price: $39.99

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By: Keith Mabry |  K&L Staff Member  |  Review Date: 11/18/2013  | Send Email
This was the show stopper at our recent Hollywood domestic staff tasting. This is what I like in my domestic pinot - pretty and elegant fruit, richer texture but not heavy, silky tannins for structure and a long finish. This has it all plus an underlying quality that is almost indefinable. Perfect now and even better with a few more years of bottle age.

By: Bryan Brick |  K&L Staff Member  |  Review Date: 10/18/2013  | Send Email
If you receive our e-mails and/or newsletter and you haven’t yet heard of the wines from the Varner Brothers you probably really have not been paying attention. We’ve championed their numerous brands (Varner, Spring Ridge, Neely and Foxglove) for years and have made many a friend with their wines along the way. I stand by my assessment that they may be the best Chardonnay producer in California over the last decade, heck, even Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate has gotten on the bandwagon giving the Varner Bros. wines consistently high scores over that same amount of time. That being said we really love what they are doing with Pinot Noir as well. All the Neely/Varner Pinots are 100% Estate fruit and while the Neely Pinots focus on single blocks, the Varner Pinot is a blend of 40% Upper Picnic Block, 30% Hidden Block and 30% Picnic Block. This blend really has come together exceptionally well at such a young age in the 2010 Varner “Three Blocks” Pinot Noir. The wine has impeccable balance and is complete in almost every way with more evolvement and development than the single block Neely wines. Fresh aspects of raspberry, clove and tobacco fill the nose while the wine comes in lush and broad on the palate. Certainly the ripest of the bunch, somehow the sum of the parts here which are treated exactly the same in all the wines under the Varner/Neely umbrella, adds up to a bit more sweetness of fruit and slickness of texture. Salted plum, cassis, tar, tobacco and lavender come at you in a round, unraveling style. This is rock solid Pinot Noir!

Additional Information:

Varietal:

Pinot Noir

- One of France's most legendary grapes and the grape that earned Burgundy its reputation. The parent of varietals like Pinot Gris/Grigio and Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir is blue to violet to indigo in color with relatively thin skins, and it is said to have been cultivated in France for more than 2,000 years. At its best, Pinot Noir creates elegant wines that are filled with primary red fruit aromas and flavors while young, revealing with an array of secondary characteristics like earth, smoke, violet, truffle and game with age. The varietal is also known, perhaps better than any, for its ability to translate terroir, or a sense of place. While the best Pinot Noir still comes from Burgundy, it is being produced with increasing success in cooler climates around the world. In France, it is part of the trifecta of grapes that can go into Champagne, and it is also grown in Alsace, Irancy, Jura, Savoie, Lorraine and Sancerre. Outside of France it is produced under the names Pinot Nero and Blauburgunder in Italy's mountainous regions, as Spätburgunder in Germany and as Blauburgunder in Austria. In the US, Pinot Noir has found suitable growing conditions in the cooler parts of California, including Carneros, the Russian River Valley, the Anderson Valley, the Sonoma Coast, Monterey County, the Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Barbara County, as well as in Oregon's Willamette Valley. In recent years, New Zealand has demonstrated its ability to interpret this hard-to-grow varietal, with successful bottlings coming from careful and attentive growers in Central Otago, Martinborough and Canterbury. Chile is also an up-and-coming region for Pinot Noir, creating fresh, fruit-forward, early-drinking and affordable Pinots from the coastal Casablanca Valley and the Limari Valley.
Country:

United States

- When people consider domestic wine, they normally think about the state of California. The fine viticultural Region within California, including the Napa Valley, Sonoma, Santa Cruz Mountains, Mendocino and Santa Barbara, are capable of growing grapes of world-class quality. But there's plenty of fabulous wine coming from other states, too. Oregon, Washington and New York are also causing eyebrows (and glassware) to be raised around the world. Click for a list of bestselling items from the United States.
Sub-Region:

California

- With the explosive growth that California's wine industry has seen the past several years, it's easy to view winemaking and grape growing in the Golden State as a recent phenomenon. And while it's true that California's viticultural history is brief compared to several European countries, this state's roots date back well over 200 years. Due to the enormous response to California wine within the United States and worldwide, there are thousands of excellent and diverse wines being produced within the state each year. For our entire selection of California wines, please visit this link.
Specific Appellation:

Santa Cruz Mountains

- Vineyards dot the valleys and ridges of this coastal AVA just south of San Francisco. Microclimates make it difficult to generalize, and vineyards are frequently separated by acres of forests and meadowlands (not to mention entire towns!), but this is nonetheless known as a cooler-climate zone ideal for pinot noir. Ridge is doubtless the most famous local producer, with its cabernet blend, Monte Bello, named after a Santa Cruz mountain peak. High-quality, low-production chardonnay and some Rhône varietals prosper as well.
Alcohol Content (%): 14.6