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Monica Larner writes: "Anyone who frequented Verona’s famed Bottega del Vino wine bar in its glory days will remember the Bertani “altar” set up in the downstairs cellar. Carefully erected under its own pool of light, the shrine consisted of important vintages arranged into a giant pyramid with magnum-sized wooden cases at the base. Small church candles flickered at the perimeter. That altar to a single brand, so revered and holy to the Veronesi, always comes to mind when I taste Bertani’s wines. This cherished symbol of Valpolicella is a beacon for thos...
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