2005 Aldo Conterno "Cicala" Barolo
Strawberry pie and cream aromas lead to a full-bodied palate. Very thick and powerful, with big, velvety tannins and masses of fruit. A blockbuster style. Best after 2013.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The estate’s 2005 Barolo Cicala is a transparent, mid-weight wine redolent of dark fruit, spices, minerals and licorice, all of which come together in the glass with superb elegance. Here the tannins are decidedly firmer and bigger than in the Colonello, even though the vineyards are just a few hundred meters apart! This powerful yet harmonious wine is simply radiant in its beauty. All that it needs is a little patience. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. (AG) ... (And 93 points Neil Martin...) Tasted at the Ottoman restaurant in Canberra. The Cicala ’05 is a gem. It is superb intensity on the nose with dark cherry, kirsch and crushed rose petals with fine delineation. The palate has a sensual entry with touches of soy and Chinese 5-spice inflected those vivacious dark berries fruits. It has a lovely kick of alcohol right on the finish that has an almost viscous quality. Superb. Tasted November 2011.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Good full medium red. Wild aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, tar and leather; this smells tannic but the fruit element expands impressively as the wine opens in the glass. Then large-scaled and firm in the mouth, with powerful acidity currently suppressing the wine's sweetness. There's a boatload of fruit here, but today the wine's mineral and gamey elements dominate. In a very traditional style, and completely different from the Colonnello: more backward and more masculine (Conterno refers to it as 'our rude boy'). The serious tannins build with air and currently cut off the wine's finishing fruit.
The vineyard Cicala [meaning: balm-cricket] is about 40-45 years old and its vines are replanted from time to time. The main variety of Nebbiolo is Lampia and its rootstock is Rupestris du Lot. The must stays on contact with the skins for 30 days, before being racked several times and then transferred to large Slavonia oak casks where it is aged and refined for 28 months.