2016 Carl Loewen Longuicher Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Mosel

SKU #1341793 90 points Vinous

 From vines planted in 1902, this leads with a fetching nose of fresh apple and lightly cooked strawberry tinged with fennel. The fruit is adeptly supported by sweetness on a silken palate. Relatively low residual sugar by currently prevailing standards makes for slightly higher alcohol (at 9%) than one usually encounters in today’s sweet Kabinetts, but, almost needless to say, 9% allows for a delightful sense of levity. The luscious finish is mouthwateringly salt-tinged and vividly underlain with classic wet stone. (DS)  (1/2018)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 From ungrafted vines that are over 100 years old, Loewen's 2016 (Longuicher) Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett opens with a clear, very aromatic, almost Gewürztraminer-like bouquet with rose petal and lychee aromas intermixed with fine, elegant slate aromas. On the palate, this is an extremely aromatic and sweet but elegant Kabinett with racy-piquant acidity and mouth-filling fruit, with good salinity on the finish. Tasted March 2018 (AP #6). (SR)  (4/2018)

K&L Notes

Ungrafted vines planted in 1903. The ’16 has a gorgeous salty growl of concentration, with the silvery juiciness of the vintage and the tactile licorice-y saltiness from the old vines. You get to see how much concentration is attainable with how little alcohol (often 9% or less) and you also get an ancient-vines bottling you don’t have to pay a $h*+-ton of money for because this is Germany, not France or Italy. You’re welcome!

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- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.


- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.