2007 Samual Tinon "Szamorodni" Dry Tokaji (500ml)
Wine & Spirits
Samuel Tinon grew up in Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, a sweet- wine appellation in Bordeaux, and came to Tokaj in 1991, to work at Oremus. He ended up buying a house and two hectares of 90-year-old vines in Olaszliszka, and started producing his own wines in 2000. Tinon looks to the old tradition of aging wine under a veil of yeast for his Szamorodni, and ages it long enough for evaporation to drop the alcohol to less than 15 percent. It smells like an Amontillado Sherry, all nuts, button mushrooms and salt; it feels succulent with crisp green fruit, fresh radish and a scent that recalls a moist, chalky underground cellar. As easy to drink as a Fino with fried things and grilled vegetables, this will last for months in the fridge after opening, ready to incite an appetite.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2007 Tokaji Dry Szamorodni is the second release after his 2003. A blend of 90% Furmint and 10% Harslevelu, it is aged under flor in 220-liter Hungarian oak barrels and only bottled after five years. It has a very salted walnut, dried apple, quasi vin jaune, almost sherry-like nose that is striking. The palate follows suit with attacking, oxidative notes of walnut, bitter lemon and a touch of salted licorice. There is plenty of character here, something reminiscent of the sea. Once you are accustomed to Tinon’s take on Tokaji, it becomes almost addictive, and it would work brilliantly as an aperitif. This is unusual, unorthodox, but intriguing and well-crafted...Tinon is a strong believer in traditional Tokaji produced in an oxidative style, which can come as a shock to those expecting clean, polished, mellifluous Tokaji Aszu. For example, he often ages the wine under a flor of yeast, so you end up with an intriguing sherry/Tokaji hybrid that is almost jarring, yet stimulating to the senses. I found these to be intriguing individual expressions of Tokaji that I must emphasize will not be to everyone’s taste. But they are still worth investigating, especially if you like the more oxidative style and are feeling more adventurous. (NM)
Samual Tonon is a Frenchman from a small village near Bordeaux, but he found his fame in Hungary, making a rare style of Tokaji: Dry Szamorodni. The wine is made from botritized Furmint and Harslevelu macerated on its skins and aged under a flor of Cadosporium Cellare, a fungus unique to Tokaj cellars.