There are many recent surprises in the region of Campania, which is perhaps the most improved winemaking area in Italy, but one thing has not changed: the wine made from the Aglianico grape grown around the village of Taurasi is still one of the glories of Italian viticulture. Contrade di Taurasi is owned by Sandro Lonardo, a schoolteacher, and his wife Enza. This Taurasi is cleanly made but complex, intriguing and fine. The wine spends about three weeks on the skins, and is aged for 18-24 months in wood, and a year in stainless steel; more recent vintages are aged entirely in large wood puncheons. The wine shows an aroma of berries, Japanese salt plum, leather, cocoa and herbs. It is a big, broad-shouldered wine on the palate. Drink now with roasted or braised meat, or age for 10 ++ years for a real treat. Unfined and unfiltered.
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