Staff Favorites - Morgan Harris

Morgan Harris

Reviews

2023 La Conseillante, Pomerol (1.5L)
Review Date: 06-13-2024
Completely in the same league as its neighbor, V.C.C. Conseillante is a personal, sentimental favorite, and the ‘23 is absolutely thrilling. To trot out an old battle axe of yesteryear’s wine writing, if V.C.C. is the King of Pomerol, Conseillante is the Queen. They are cut from the same energetic, pristinely perfumed purple-fruited cloth, but there’s something more elegant and graceful about Conseillante: more red fruit, allspice, cedar, potting soil notes. The wine is big and complicated, but never flashy or imposing. I wish I had a lot of this in my cellar.

2023 La Conseillante, Pomerol 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 06-13-2024
Completely in the same league as its neighbor, V.C.C. Conseillante is a personal, sentimental favorite, and the ‘23 is absolutely thrilling. To trot out an old battle axe of yesteryear’s wine writing, if V.C.C. is the King of Pomerol, Conseillante is the Queen. They are cut from the same energetic, pristinely perfumed purple-fruited cloth, but there’s something more elegant and graceful about Conseillante: more red fruit, allspice, cedar, potting soil notes. The wine is big and complicated, but never flashy or imposing. I wish I had a lot of this in my cellar.

2023 La Conseillante, Pomerol
Review Date: 06-13-2024
Completely in the same league as its neighbor, V.C.C. Conseillante is a personal, sentimental favorite, and the ‘23 is absolutely thrilling. To trot out an old battle axe of yesteryear’s wine writing, if V.C.C. is the King of Pomerol, Conseillante is the Queen. They are cut from the same energetic, pristinely perfumed purple-fruited cloth, but there’s something more elegant and graceful about Conseillante: more red fruit, allspice, cedar, potting soil notes. The wine is big and complicated, but never flashy or imposing. I wish I had a lot of this in my cellar.

2023 Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion (1.5L)
Review Date: 06-01-2024
Always iconoclastic, Cheval really sticks out in St-Emilion; considerably more dark, dense, tannic, and brooding than its St-Emilion stablemates, this felt, on initial tasting, more like something from the Left Bank. The Cabernet Franc really does a lot of the talking here, and gives the wine tons of size and structure. Everything here screams of opulence and intensity, but very outside-of-center aesthetics for the appellation.

2023 Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion (1.5L) 3-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 06-01-2024
Always iconoclastic, Cheval really sticks out in St-Emilion; considerably more dark, dense, tannic, and brooding than its St-Emilion stablemates, this felt, on initial tasting, more like something from the Left Bank. The Cabernet Franc really does a lot of the talking here, and gives the wine tons of size and structure. Everything here screams of opulence and intensity, but very outside-of-center aesthetics for the appellation.

2023 Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 06-01-2024
Always iconoclastic, Cheval really sticks out in St-Emilion; considerably more dark, dense, tannic, and brooding than its St-Emilion stablemates, this felt, on initial tasting, more like something from the Left Bank. The Cabernet Franc really does a lot of the talking here, and gives the wine tons of size and structure. Everything here screams of opulence and intensity, but very outside-of-center aesthetics for the appellation.

2023 Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion
Review Date: 06-01-2024
Always iconoclastic, Cheval really sticks out in St-Emilion; considerably more dark, dense, tannic, and brooding than its St-Emilion stablemates, this felt, on initial tasting, more like something from the Left Bank. The Cabernet Franc really does a lot of the talking here, and gives the wine tons of size and structure. Everything here screams of opulence and intensity, but very outside-of-center aesthetics for the appellation.

2023 Figeac, St-Emilion
Review Date: 06-01-2024
While I do think the house style at Figeac has changed immensely over the last few years to something much more flashy and modern, this is still a family-owned estate that’s doing tremendous work, just possibly not in the old-school, funky Bordeaux bent of years past. The wine has become significantly darker, and masculine, with lots of brooding black fruit. Lush and pristinely ripe, there’s a great backbone of acid and well-managed powdery tannins driving a long finish. Oak spice, floral, and coffee notes are all cozied up next to the fruit.

2023 Troplong Mondot, St-Émilion
Review Date: 06-01-2024
Definitely a unique style in St-Emilion—the raw density, size, and character of the fruit suggests something akin to Valanraud or the ‘23 Cheval, but the wine is quite unadorned on the wood side of things. I like this, as the focus on big, rich, pure fruit is a stellar way to do this style. The tell-tale ‘23 acid keeps things moving, but you don’t have the elements of château 2x4 which mark some of the other estates that push this level of ripeness.

2023 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol
Review Date: 06-01-2024
Absolutely one of the top wines in the vintage, and Pomerol is just on a different level from the rest of the Right Bank. This will be one for the ages. A big baseline of exotically ripe purple plumy fruit is mingled seamlessly with perfumed purple flower notes, barky-herb amaro-esque varietal spice combines with deft cardamom and vanilla oak-derivative notes. I just can’t get over how perfectly integrated these all are, combined with an absolutely spotlessly poised, refreshing acid, and tannins that drives very long finish. This a wine that’s easy to understand now, but will only improve with time.

2023 Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien (1.5L)
Review Date: 05-23-2024
One of the classiest offerings of the vintage, with a very old-school claret profile: elegant and pristinely ripe dark red fruits of damson plum, black raspberry, with sous-bois cedar bark component, gravelly minerality, and tobacco and anise spice notes. The wine is very poised, but intense and well-muscled: think prima ballerina. For lovers of old-school Bordeaux this a clear pick, and will drink well now, but also cellar for decades.

2023 Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-23-2024
One of the classiest offerings of the vintage, with a very old-school claret profile: elegant and pristinely ripe dark red fruits of damson plum, black raspberry, with sous-bois cedar bark component, gravelly minerality, and tobacco and anise spice notes. The wine is very poised, but intense and well-muscled: think prima ballerina. For lovers of old-school Bordeaux this a clear pick, and will drink well now, but also cellar for decades.

2023 Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien
Review Date: 05-23-2024
One of the classiest offerings of the vintage, with a very old-school claret profile: elegant and pristinely ripe dark red fruits of damson plum, black raspberry, with sous-bois cedar bark component, gravelly minerality, and tobacco and anise spice notes. The wine is very poised, but intense and well-muscled: think prima ballerina. For lovers of old-school Bordeaux this a clear pick, and will drink well now, but also cellar for decades.

2023 Barde-Haut, St-Emilion 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-23-2024
Very, dense dark and purple, a solidly build St. Emilion, absolutely packed with classic Bordeaux flavor. Blackberry, mulberry, and dark plum mingle with baking chcoolate, tobacco and cedar bark. Lots cinnamon and nutmeg oak spice, without ever verging into cloying, or sweet-seeming. Definitely a St. Emilion you could pick up by the caseful, and happily drink for years to come without feeling guilty about ripping a cork.

2023 Barde-Haut, St-Emilion
Review Date: 05-23-2024
Very, dense dark and purple, a solidly build St. Emilion, absolutely packed with classic Bordeaux flavor. Blackberry, mulberry, and dark plum mingle with baking chcoolate, tobacco and cedar bark. Lots cinnamon and nutmeg oak spice, without ever verging into cloying, or sweet-seeming. Definitely a St. Emilion you could pick up by the caseful, and happily drink for years to come without feeling guilty about ripping a cork.

2023 La Gaffelière, St-Émilion 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-23-2024
One of my favorite wines this trip, and definitely in the right bank '23s. Lots of heady, pristinely ripe dark red fruit: Bing cherry, black raspberry. Also perfumed rose and dried bay leaf savory aromatics The mid-palate is smooth and velvety with leading into powdery tannin finish, and enough acid to keep everything taught and moving forward. Great signature of St. Emilion terroir, and just overall pretty effortless and graceful, while also having considerable weight. Bravo!

2023 Pape Clément Blanc, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 05-19-2024
Possibly the most maximalist expression of White Bordeaux in 2023, the Pape Clement is an exceptional wine. In some vintages, the estate has let the fruit, alcohol, and body get away from them, but Magrez team has produced a real high-wire act of ripeness, intensity, and fresh, tangy acid. This wine is very va-va-voom with tropical pineapple and Meyer lemon fruit, next to the cinnamon-nutmeg spice of oak, with fresh daffodil, herbs, and a pinch of gravely minerality. The wine is absolutely packed with flavor, but also energy, as the bright, vibrant acid keeps the flavor train on the tracks.

2023 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-19-2024
A really majestic Cos in 2023; the wine is St. Estephe to a T, with ripe, but fresh and dense brambly black-blue fruit, cedar bark, cigar wrapper, and cinnamon. Ripe, velvety tannins, and that tell-tale edge of brightness from that '23 acid that leaves you wanting to come back for another sip. Huge wine. Huge finish. Definitely not backwards, drinks spectacularly right now, and likely for the next 50+ years. If you can afford to put this into your cellar in quantity, you will not regret it.

2023 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe
Review Date: 05-19-2024
A really majestic Cos in 2023; the wine is St. Estephe to a T, with ripe, but fresh and dense brambly black-blue fruit, cedar bark, cigar wrapper, and cinnamon. Ripe, velvety tannins, and that tell-tale edge of brightness from that '23 acid that leaves you wanting to come back for another sip. Huge wine. Huge finish. Definitely not backwards, drinks spectacularly right now, and likely for the next 50+ years. If you can afford to put this into your cellar in quantity, you will not regret it.

2023 Meyney, St-Estèphe
Review Date: 05-19-2024
A true battleaxe of value and reliability in St. Estephe; if you like structured, old-school Bordeaux and want to drink it on the regular, the '23 Meyney delivers it in spades; lots of dark fruit, cedar-cinnamon spice, and heady purple flower aromatics. Tannins are assertive, and present, with a bright acid to keep the finish refreshing. Definitely emblematic of the vintage, but classically Meyney, as well. If you'd liked this wine in the past, you're in for a treat. Great "anytime" Bordeaux.

2023 Malescot-St-Exupéry, Margaux 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-19-2024
One of the darkest, burliest Margaux I tasted in '23, this wine may not have quite the grace of some of its stable mates, but there's plenty of charm, just the same. If you like a more dark fruited, cabernet-dominant profile to your Bordeaux, this is the bottle for you: plush, dark fruits with pleasant oak spice behind, the tannins are very present and assertive, but not over the top, with a bright acid backbone lifting to a long finish of gentle dried bark and purple flowers. One of the best deals in Margaux, no question...

2023 Malescot-St-Exupéry, Margaux
Review Date: 05-19-2024
One of the darkest, burliest Margaux I tasted in '23, this wine may not have quite the grace of some of its stable mates, but there's plenty of charm, just the same. If you like a more dark fruited, cabernet-dominant profile to your Bordeaux, this is the bottle for you: plush, dark fruits with pleasant oak spice behind, the tannins are very present and assertive, but not over the top, with a bright acid backbone lifting to a long finish of gentle dried bark and purple flowers. One of the best deals in Margaux, no question...

2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien (1.5L)
Review Date: 05-19-2024
Lush and dark, this is a rather powerful, intense expression of D-B, but one that fits the vintage; big fruit and powerful structure, balanced by perfect management of tannin and refreshing acid. This wine completely lives up to its super second reputation, and is one of the standouts in St. Julien this vintage.

2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-19-2024
Lush and dark, this is a rather powerful, intense expression of D-B, but one that fits the vintage; big, lush fruit and structure, balanced by perfect management of tannin and refreshing acid. This wine completely lives up to its super second reputation, and is one of the standouts in St. Julien this vintage.

2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien
Review Date: 05-19-2024
Lush and dark, this is a rather powerful, intense expression of D-B, but one that fits the vintage; big, lush fruit and structure, balanced by perfect management of tannin and refreshing acid. This wine completely lives up to its super second reputation, and is one of the standouts in St. Julien this vintage.

2023 Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (1.5L)
Review Date: 05-18-2024
One of my absolutely favorite wines of the vintage; the '23 Haut-Brion is dense, dark, and absolutely stacked structurally, but there's something just so completely seamless and alluring about the wine. All the Clarence-Dillon properties did killer work in '23, and the crown jewel is no exception. The classic, smoky, intense black fruit aromatics of classic Haut-Brion are matched by heady, purple flowers and black tea, truffle, and gravel minerality...the velvety, fuller, but not-too-over-the-top mouthfeel is a joy to taste, even so young. Just absolutely superlative Bordeaux; the stuff dreams are made of...

2023 Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-18-2024
One of my absolutely favorite wines of the vintage; the '23 Haut-Brion is dense, dark, and absolutely stacked structurally, but there's something just so completely seamless and alluring about the wine. All the Clarence-Dillon properties did killer work in '23, and the crown jewel is no exception. The classic, smoky, intense black fruit aromatics of classic Haut-Brion are matched by heady, purple flowers and black tea, truffle, and gravel minerality...the velvety, fuller, but not-too-over-the-top mouthfeel is a joy to taste, even so young. Just absolutely superlative Bordeaux; the stuff dreams are made of...

2023 de Fieuzal Rouge, Pessac-Léognan 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-18-2024
De Fieuzal has long been one of the best deals in classed-growth Pessac, and the '23 proves no exception: a solid core of mixed red and black fruits all fleshy and ripe, the tannins are a bit rough-and tumble, but in the rustic in a way we'd expect in vigorous young Bordeaux. The acid is bright and refreshing, rounded out with herbal and vegetable ash, as well a cedar bark and violet aromatics on a long finish driven by the bright, but not overwhelming acid. Absolutely the sort of wine I'd love to drink young, but also lose-and-rediscover once every five years in my cellar.

2023 de Fieuzal Rouge, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 05-18-2024
De Fieuzal has long been one of the best deals in classed-growth Pessac, and the '23 proves no exception: a solid core of mixed red and black fruits all fleshy and ripe, the tannins are a bit rough-and tumble, but in the rustic in a way we'd expect in vigorous young Bordeaux. The acid is bright and refreshing, rounded out with herbal and vegetable ash, as well a cedar bark and violet aromatics on a long finish driven by the bright, but not overwhelming acid. Absolutely the sort of wine I'd love to drink young, but also lose-and-rediscover once every five years in my cellar.

2023 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
Review Date: 05-15-2024
A very broad, dense expression of Lynch-Bages compared to the wines of yesteryear. They also had a prolonged harvest, which allowed them to pick all their lots at peak ripeness, avoiding the negative impacts from the rain on the 21st of September. Quite brooding and dark, with lots of dark berry and plum fruit, plenty of oak spice and cedar bark. It definitely shares some of the pedigree of its more famous (and more expensive) Pauillac stable mates. While not quite as exotic as some other top performers, I love the Lych-Bages for its stalwart Pauillac character: stiff-upper-lip, the strong and silent type, with huge depth beneath. This is an exceptional bottle of Cab-forward Bordeaux, and certainly one that's priced in a way that allows you to stock up for the long-term cellaring that this wine deserves.

2023 Malartic-Lagravière Blanc, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 05-14-2024
One of the superlative blancs of this vintage, especially if you like the flashy, old-school, lush style of White Bordeaux. Lots of tropical, pristinely ripe citrus (yuzu, grapefuit) and and edge of yellow tropical fruit (pineapple, kiwi) with fascinating secondaries of egg nog spice, and gentle, aromatic herbs (thai basil, tarragon). Really just so complex and fascinating aromatically. The body is incredibly rich, and broad, but what makes the '23 whites so special is is the acid; the tang is so welcome and necessary to keep you coming back for one sip after another. I could drink so much of this. So very complex on its own, it'll make a great accompaniment to a wide variety of foods.

2023 Carillon d'Angélus, St-Emilion
Review Date: 05-14-2024
This is very sexy, finessed St. Emilion, in the model of supreme elegance of the Grand Vin; while it doesn't have quite the power, heft and length its big-brother, at the price point you get 90-95% fidelity at close to a quarter of the price...that sounds like a pretty good deal to me. If Angelus is the Fully Loaded Super Sport, think of this as the stock model...it's still an amazing car, just maybe not quite as much fun to drive as the superlative example. Lots of bright middle-plus-weight dark red fruit (Bing cherry, dark cherry) with, with a long, finish focused around cedar bark, tobacco, and baking spice aromatics. Delightful!

2023 La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-14-2024
This is very, very fine old-school claret, synthesized with all the learning of the last several decades of modern precision winemaking. Like most of the Clarence Dillon properties in 2023, an abnormally high percentage of Cabernet points to a supreme elegance, and lithe, coiled power. Of the vintage, these were some of the most finely knit wines of a finely knit vintage. Typically, the La Mission was the most elegant of these: pristinely ripe red and black fruits, with pencil lead, cedar, and spicebox secondaries. The structure is full and rich, without every being ponderous or leaden, and amazing velvety texture driven by bright acid, and smooth tannins. This is a little less dense and imposing than the Haut-Brion, but for those of us who prize elegance, this could be the wine of the vintage.

2023 La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (1.5L)
Review Date: 05-14-2024
This is very, very fine old-school claret, synthesized with all the learning of the last several decades of modern precision winemaking. Like most of the Clarence Dillon properties in 2023, an abnormally high percentage of Cabernet points to a supreme elegance, and lithe, coiled power. Of the vintage, these were some of the most finely knit wines of a finely knit vintage. Typically, the La Mission was the most elegant of these: pristinely ripe red and black fruits, with pencil lead, cedar, and spicebox secondaries. The structure is full and rich, without every being ponderous or leaden, and amazing velvety texture driven by bright acid, and smooth tannins. This is a little less dense and imposing than the Haut-Brion, but for those of us who prize elegance, this could be the wine of the vintage.

2023 La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 05-14-2024
This is very, very fine old-school claret, synthesized with all the learning of the last several decades of modern precision winemaking. Like most of the Clarence Dillon properties in 2023, an abnormally high percentage of Cabernet points to a supreme elegance, and lithe, coiled power. Of the vintage, these were some of the most finely knit wines of a finely knit vintage. Typically, the La Mission was the most elegant of these: pristinely ripe red and black fruits, with pencil lead, cedar, and spicebox secondaries. The structure is full and rich, without every being ponderous or leaden, and amazing velvety texture driven by bright acid, and smooth tannins. This is a little less dense and imposing than the Haut-Brion, but for those of us who prize elegance, this could be the wine of the vintage.

2023 Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc
Review Date: 05-06-2024
That you can buy 1855 classed growth Bordeaux in 2024 for sub-$30 is kind of amazing. Cantemerle has long, long been one of my favorite sleepers among the classified growths. Resolutely classic at this estate (without being overly rustic), the wine has a great mix of pristine black and red fruit, with classic cedar spice, cocoa, and roasted red bell pepper notes. Structurally, you have stand-up tannins and acidity, that are present, but not overbearing; they drive a long finish. This is absolutely the sort of Bordeaux you could buy a case (or five) of and drink now, drink in 5 years, or drink in 20 years. A great wine to buy in quantity if you had any important events in 2023 you might want to mark with anniversaries down the road...
Price: $24.99 Add To Cart

2023 Mouton Rothschild "Aile d'Argent" Bordeaux Blanc
Review Date: 05-06-2024
As a former sommelier, one of my secrets is that I adore classic, old-school white Bordeaux. As tragically unhip as these wines may be in certain circles, I find the combination of Sauvignon Blanc and oak to be so exciting, and no place does this more so than the big left-bank estates. We're so used to seeing the cinnamon, vanilla, and all-spice notes of oak next to a neutral grape (i.e. Chardonnay), but I find them much more exciting next to the tropical fruits of lush Sauvignon. The Aile d'Argent is no exception: Massively concentrated pineapple, grapefruit, tangerine sit next to creme brulee, vanilla-bourbon-spice notes, and heady white florals. The structure is really what makes this wine sing though: huge, mouth-filling roundness and texture, with mouthwatering bright( but not overwhelming) acid. If I could afford it, I would drink a lot of this. To have it is to understand great white Bordeaux, and in '23 the expression is absolutely superlative with its amazing combination of richness and levity.

2023 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac (1.5L)
Review Date: 05-06-2024
A classic, old-school Mouton in '23. Huge size, huge finesse: predictable rich, dark fruits with cedar, graphite, and pencil lead secondaries. A rich edge of spiced herbaceousness and florality, and very well-integrated oak, but, make no mistake, this is old-school Vin de Guard Bordeaux. The tannins and the acidity aren't shy right now, but that will be what makes it last for years in your cellar. The wine definitely has the aromatic complexity and fruit richness to live up to its structure, and will improve for decades to come as it ages. As for pricing: buy the dip!

2023 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac (1.5L) 3-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-06-2024
A classic, old-school Mouton in '23. Huge size, huge finesse: predictable rich, dark fruits with cedar, graphite, and pencil lead secondaries. A rich edge of spiced herbaceousness and florality, and very well-integrated oak, but, make no mistake, this is old-school Vin de Guard Bordeaux. The tannins and the acidity aren't shy right now, but that will be what makes it last for years in your cellar. The wine definitely has the aromatic complexity and fruit richness to live up to its structure, and will improve for decades to come as it ages. As for pricing: buy the dip!

2023 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-06-2024
A classic, old-school Mouton in '23. Huge size, huge finesse: predictable rich, dark fruits with cedar, graphite, and pencil lead secondaries. A rich edge of spiced herbaceousness and florality, and very well-integrated oak, but, make no mistake, this is old-school Vin de Guard Bordeaux. The tannins and the acidity aren't shy right now, but that will be what makes it last for years in your cellar. The wine definitely has the aromatic complexity and fruit richness to live up to its structure, and will improve for decades to come as it ages. As for pricing: buy the dip!

2023 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac
Review Date: 05-06-2024
A classic, old-school Mouton in '23. Huge size, huge finesse: predictable rich, dark fruits with cedar, graphite, and pencil lead secondaries: a rich edge of spiced herbaceousness and florality, and very well-integrated oak, but, make no mistake, this is old-school Vin de Guard Bordeaux. The tannins and the acidity aren't shy right now, but that will be what makes it last for years in your cellar. The wine definitely has the aromatic complexity and fruit richness to live up to its structure, and will improve for decades to come as it ages. As for pricing: buy the dip!

2023 Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 05-06-2024
Lovely bright red-black fruit, a mix of dark raspberry and damson plum. The real interesting part is the savory secondaries, as this one of the wines that felt the most like old-school Bordeaux that I tasted in the 2023 EP. The wine has this spiced mint, sage, and vegetable ash aromatic that makes me think directly of the great Bordeaux of the '90s, '80s and before. Otherwise, the wine has the great, poised balance, very goldilocks "juuust right" structure. This wine has always been a bit of a sleeper, but great to pick up in quantity in'23, since the pricing is so soft in comparison to other Pessac properties. Great to drink now, in 5 years, or 10+.

2023 l'Evangile, Pomerol
Review Date: 05-02-2024
Young winemaker Juliette Couderc is clearly has a firmer hand on the tiller here than in years past; she arrived in 2020 and has been steering the wine in much more contemporary direction than the company's Left Bank estates, which remain slightly more staid. This change is definitely reflective of Saskia de Rothschild's growing influence in the company. The 2023 is a finely knit Pomerol, not quite of the magnitude as VCC or Conseillante, but the finesse and elegance here is quite apparent: pristinely ripe red and black fruit intermingle with a heady purple florality, with supporting nodes of cedar, pine, and cacao. The Merlot's elegance really shines through here with absolute class: velvety texture, and a persistent, mouthwatering finish; I look forward to seeing where L'Evangile continues to develop, as Juliette is able to embrace more of the high-effort, low-intervention winemaking which is considerably more de regeur and thoughtful; this wine is fully emblematic of the beginning of that change.

2023 Léoville-Las-Cases, St-Julien 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-01-2024
LLC has always been a bit of a quandary for me; one of my favorite wines in St. Julien, it's always been set aside from wines that typify the St. Julien style, i.e. more high-toned, pretty, red-fruited: think Gruaud-Larose, the Borie properties, or Branaire-Ducru. Leoville has always been of a more brooding, dark, Pauillac-y mode. It deserves it's "super second" status in 2023, for sure, as the overall bearing of the wine is nothing if not aristocratic. The wine is very vertical, with a big mouthfeel, with very fine, but quite present tannins, and the bright acidity that marks the vintage. The Cabernet-mode character really leads here in the wine. The oak is very deftly managed and seamlessly integrated into the wine, with just-so proportions of floral aromatics, although I do miss a bit of the old-school Bordeaux brett-adjacent funk, but that's the case with almost all of the serious left-bank wines these days. All-and-all, a very fine example of absolutely world-class Cabernet, with that Bordeaux signature of freshness and density, but it is made in a very Vin de Guard style. While I'd be happy to have more than a few bottles of this in my cellar, it will be a bottle I'll be waiting at least half-decade to rip a cork on.

2023 Léoville-Las-Cases, St-Julien
Review Date: 05-01-2024
LLC has always been a bit of a quandary for me; one of my favorite wines in St. Julien, it's always been set aside from wines that typify the St. Julien style, i.e. more high-toned, pretty, red-fruited: think Gruaud-Larose, the Borie properties, or Branaire-Ducru. Leoville has always been of a more brooding, dark, Pauillac-y mode. It deserves it's "super second" status in 2023, for sure, as the overall bearing of the wine is nothing if not aristocratic. The wine is very vertical, with a big mouthfeel, with very fine, but quite present tannins, and the bright acidity that marks the vintage. The Cabernet-mode character really leads here in the wine. The oak is very deftly managed and seamlessly integrated into the wine, with just-so proportions of floral aromatics, although I do miss a bit of the old-school Bordeaux brett-adjacent funk, but that's the case with almost all of the serious left-bank wines these days. All-and-all, a very fine example of absolutely world-class Cabernet, with that Bordeaux signature of freshness and density, but it is made in a very Vin de Guard style. While I'd be happy to have more than a few bottles of this in my cellar, it will be a bottle I'll be waiting at least half-decade to rip a cork on.

2023 Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 6-Pack in OWC
Review Date: 05-01-2024
Pontet-Canet is one of the biggest, most unapologetic Pauillacs of the '23 vintage, reflecting the Tesserons continued iconoclasm. When you visit Bordeaux generally, you see a lot of barrels, and a lot of stainless steel tanks. At Pontet things are very different. In their chai there's every type of vessel you can imagine: stainless, wooden uprights, wooden eggs, concrete eggs, above ground amphora, below ground amphora; you name it, they have it. Add to this their conversion to biodynamics approximately fifteen years ago, and you have the picture of the Tesserons as risk takers and innovators. The wine '23 is a massive, dense and dark, without being encumbered by the chapping tannins of yesteryears wines. This wine is the perfect bridge between people who appreciate the bigger, fruitier wines of Napa, while remaining recognizably funky and savory for the old-school Bordeaux afficionado. Great mixture of power and finesse, the Tesserons have threaded the needle for Bordeaux that's nice to drink now, but will age for decades to come. One of my favorite Pauillacs this vintage, and the price is certainly not "trop cher".

2023 Pontet-Canet, Pauillac
Review Date: 05-01-2024
Pontet-Canet is one of the biggest, most unapologetic Pauillacs of the '23 vintage, reflecting the Tesserons continued iconoclasm. When you visit Bordeaux generally, you see a lot of barrels, and a lot of stainless steel tanks. At Pontet things are very different. In their chai there's every type of vessel you can imagine: stainless, wooden uprights, wooden eggs, concrete eggs, above ground amphora, below ground amphora; you name it, they have it. Add to this their conversion to biodynamics approximately fifteen years ago, and you have the picture of the Tesserons as risk takers and innovators. The wine '23 is a massive, dense and dark, without being encumbered by the chapping tannins of yesteryears wines. This wine is the perfect bridge between people who appreciate the bigger, fruitier wines of Napa, while remaining recognizably funky and savory for the old-school Bordeaux afficionado. Great mixture of power and finesse, the Tesserons have threaded the needle for Bordeaux that's nice to drink now, but will age for decades to come. One of my favorite Pauillacs this vintage, and the price is certainly not "trop cher".

Woodford Reserve 2024 Batch Proof 121.2 Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (700ml) (ships in a magnum box)
Review Date: 05-01-2024
While I generally find the regular Woodford Reserve a little sweet and wood-encumbered for my taste, the high proof here really does a lot to thin that baby fat out: tons of sweet orange rind, clove, sandalwood, and pure vanilla character are seamlessly integrated with a big body and a warm, but not overly hot finish. Sometimes high proof bourbons can be distractingly boozy, but this manages its proportions really well, never feeling overwrought. Would be great for sipping on its own in smaller quantities, but would probably make a hell of a Manhattan with a high-flavor vermouth, like Carpano; this is not a bourbon for the flavor-averse.
Price: $129.99 Add To Cart

2022 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
Review Date: 05-01-2024
Lush, tangy core of classic, juicy tangerine-grapefruit Sauvignon Blanc fruit, leading into savory secondaries of tarragon and mint. The green notes that sometimes overwhelm in this genre are deftly managed here. Structurally we have tangy mouth-watering acid, with a nice middle-plus weight texture. The sort of wine you could just crush on a sunny day at Dolores Park, but will also hold up nicely to more light-weight foods: think pasta primavera with summer veggies or salmon with herb gremolata. At this price, definitely house-wine material. Native-yeast fermented...official organics start in 2023, but if they're certifying in '23, it means the '22 was in practice, so you can feel good about the farming too.