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Staff Favorites - Will Blakely
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Reviews
2020 Bodegas Merayo "Las Tres Filas" Mencía Bierzo
Review Date: 09-14-2024
I have always loved Mencia for its pairing versatility and overall freshness, but lately have been hard-pressed to find one that marries quality and complexity with a comfortable price point. This wine overdelivers on that front, and with gusto. Brambly berries, cured meat, and mountain herb fly out of the glass, with loamy earth and a healthy dose of minerals on the finish. The finesse and concentration leave me baffled, because the flavors seem rich, but the overall profile is light and delicate. A taut backbone of acid keeps everything held together, while cracked pepper and saline minerals whet the appetite and excite further exploration. Just as at home with braised meats or roast chicken as with grilled vegetables, or even salmon, this is one to buy by the case and break out for entertaining. It will turn a lot of heads.
Corazon "K&L Exclusive - Barrel #229" W.L. Weller Barrel Aged Anejo Tequila (750ml)
Review Date: 04-10-2024
Such a hidden gem, and equally confusing as it is compelling, this cask threw me for a loop. When I poured and smelled it, my first thought was, "This is supposed to be tequila? No, sir, that's bourbon." The whiskey influence is profound here, as the nose is chock full of vanilla, caramel, toasted wood, and barrel spice. The palate delivers fresh, sweet flavors of the same, with cinnamon and clove balancing a subtle apple skin tone. It's vibrant and juicy with a lingering, mellow finish. Heartwarming and mouthwatering, this sort of bottle deserves a backup or two; if you drink it with friends (and you absolutely should), it'll be gone before the night is over.
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Corazon "K&L Exclusive - Barrel #029" Stagg Bourbon Barrel Aged Anejo Tequila (750ml)
Review Date: 04-10-2024
I love when these barrels arrive, as it highlights just how much of a difference the vessel makes for the end result of aged tequila. Here the nose is much more agave forward, with a touch of vanilla and heat from the bourbon cask. Creme caramel, banana leaf, cut grass and black pepper dominate the palate, suspended by a rich, full texture. Just a tiny bite alludes to the powerful spirit once housed in the barrel before resting this polished tequila. A fun treat, and very collectible- it would make a great gift for fans of either brand.
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Castle & Key Restoration Rye "Down For Whatever" K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #3583 Barrel Proof Straight Kentucky Rye Whiskey (750ml)
Review Date: 03-29-2024
This sort of sleeper should not be judged on paper or even the first pour- it takes a moment to get going, but patience here will reap tremendous rewards. The nose started muted, but as I let the spirit sit in the glass, sweet peach, butterscotch and a hint of dill started to emerge along with a whiff of white pepper. The palate is dense and oily with no shortage of spicy rye character. Candied nuts, citrus peel, savory herbs and salted caramel sit suspended in that hearty texture, with a tannic structure providing balance and support. Truly impressive to achieve such character and length in such a short time aging- this is a testament to the quality of rye whiskey as a category.
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Kanosuke Single Malt Japanese Whisky (700ml)
Review Date: 03-15-2024
One of the most exciting whisky releases of the last year, Kanosuke finally comes to an approachable price point, and I could not be happier. The quality on display here is unrivaled in Japanese whisky at this cost. It even gives single malt Scotch a run for its money. The nose starts strong with big oak and vanilla, but there's more nuance than apparent at first whiff. White flowers, tropical fruit, candied citrus and confectioners sugar lie just beneath the heavy base notes. The palate is soft but structured, offering far more complexity than you could expect from relatively young whisky. Peaches drizzled with condensed milk, sweet grain, toasted oak and a kick of spice make the first impression. But a thread of saline and earthy umami from the coastal aging and the recharred shochu casks counter the sweeter flavors and round out the whole package. What keeps me coming back though is the elegance and purity of it. This will strike some fans of Japanese whisky as odd or strong, but I believe it hits all the hallmarks that separate Japanese malt from Scottish. It's perfectly composed without a single note out of place. I dare say it will convert some Scotch drinkers who thought Japanese whisky too light or too expensive, because at the end of the day, it's just exceptional whisky.
Price:
$79.99
Bruichladdich 18 Year Old Unpeated Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (blue wrap) (750ml)
Review Date: 03-01-2024
This was such a pleasure to taste, and worth the long wait for its release- a golden gift from the gods. Heady aromas of sweet grain, orange oil and peach skin float elegantly out of the glass. The palate delivers glazed peach and apricot, almond pastry and Manuka honey. Though unpeated, it is distinctly Islay with its sea salt and slightly mossy profile. The rich texture and sweet, endlessly lingering finish suggest dessert wine casks played a prominent role in the aging of this exquisite spirit. Any Scotch fan will be instantly smitten, and I think this would make an enticing entry into the category, though anyone who starts here would be spoiled for life.
Price:
$169.99
Ross & Squibb Remus "K&L Exclusive - LISV Barrel #531" Warehouse H, Floor 6, Single Barrel Barrel Proof Indiana Straight Bourbon Whiskey (750ml)
Review Date: 02-09-2024
It was an indescribable honor and pleasure to visit the Ross & Squib facility to taste these barrels and learn about the immense labor and effort that goes into making these humble, often underappreciated spirits. One of the biggest takeaways from that afternoon was how seriously they take rye, and exactly how difficult rye is to work with. So when we got through our blind tasting and learned we'd selected a bourbon that is 49% rye, 10% of which is malted, I was all the more impressed. This does not drink like a super spicy rye bomb at all; instead, the palate is rich and fruity with a pleasant but understated rye spice throughout. The nose features big, ripe cherries and honeysuckle atop delicate pastry dough. The flavors bring more cherry, along with lingonberry and orange peel. Most impressive here is the full, sticky texture that highlights the candy-like sweetness and the tart flavor of the fruit. All in all, a fantastic example of why this Indiana distillery is one of the best operating today.
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Wathen’s Private Barrel "K&L Exclusive" Single Barrel #4498 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (750ml)
Review Date: 02-09-2024
What a special barrel, and a rare treat to have something this unique and approachable on our shelves. Right off the bat, creme caramel, banana leaf and bananas foster leap from the glass to get your taste buds ready. On the palate, unctuous vanilla custard, red apple, more banana and brown sugar give this a sweet, mesmerizing profile. There's something else tropical in there- almost a hint of ultra ripe mango. All this is balanced beautifully by cinnamon candy and a lingering chestnut-y umami. At this proof, anyone can enjoy it, but it does not feel thin or watered down; the flavors are perfectly concentrated and seamlessly integrated. Whether just starting down the bourbon rabbit hole or a seasoned veteran, you will surely find a lot to love here.
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Compass Box "Artist's Blend" K&L Exclusive Marrying Cask Clynelish Barrel Finished Single Barrel Blended Scotch (750ml)
Review Date: 01-30-2024
This could be the sleeper of the season. A far cry from grand dad's blended scotch, this vatting showcases the advances John Glaser and Compass Box have made in the category since they started bottling meticulously crafted, high-quality blends. First nosing greets you with explosive aromas of vanilla, heather, treacle, tangerine and tropical fruits, but with a whiff of that oily, resinous character that comes from the Clynelish cask. The palate yields much of the same flavors but with greater complexity, adding spice, saline, apricot and savory wood to the mix. Texturally, this drinks like a dream, sticky and viscous but never overbearing. Fine oak and chocolatey earth linger on the finish, lending a hint of bitterness that serves to offset the rich, honeyed character upfront. Truly a complete package, this should turn a lot of heads, as it offers an experience unrivaled at this price point, except perhaps by the enigmatic Redacted bottlings. Do yourself a favor and pick this up before it's gone; you won't regret it.
Price:
$59.99
Casco Viejo Blanco Tequila (1L)
Review Date: 07-28-2023
To make a long story short, not only is this is the best blanco tequila under $30, but it also outperforms most brands at twice the price or more. The long version involves going back to the beginning of tequila as a regional style of spirit. Jose Cuervo was the first major tequila producer in the middle of the 18th century, and at the time, most of the agave was coming from the lower lying regions now known as El Valle. One hundred years later, the valley was saturated with agave fields owned by large companies, so producers trying to enter the market were increasingly looking to plant agave in the previously undeveloped mountain areas. The Camarena family began doing so in the 1880's, ultimately leading to building their distilleries and the brands we see today. El Tesoro de Don Felipe and G4 are headed by two Camarena brothers who struck out to build their own tequila brands, while the main family estate makes Casco Viejo, and they do it in the most traditional style you'll find at an everyday price point. Roasted in brick ovens rather than high-pressure steam vats, fermented over the course of days and weeks rather than hours, and bottled without the use of chemical additives, this is pure and authentic tequila. As we typically get from the highland style, the flavor cooked agave comes accented with lifted citrus and subtle floral tones. A hint of pepper and dried mountain herbs brings some savory influence, and the finish is clean and refreshing. It hits all the right notes. Not just margarita fodder, it's unbelievably enjoyable to sip neat, even more-so to serve as ranch water. When the cost of everything coming from Jalisco is only increasing, treat yourself to something that turns back time, delivering historic quality at a long-forgotten price point.
Price:
$21.99
Hakata 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Aged Fukuoka 100% Barley Japanese Whisky (700ml)
Review Date: 05-16-2023
One of the most exciting and promising Japanese whiskies in years, Hakata should be on everyone's radar going forward. With the insane and continued price increases on age-stated Suntory offerings, it's refreshing to find something that's actually worth the price it commands. Honestly, this is the sort of whisky Yamazaki 12 wishes it could be. Pure barley with full sherry flavor, and at a price that almost feels nostalgic. What's not to love? But this stands on its own merit independent of comparisons to the over-hyped names you're familiar with. What sets it apart is the unique process to break down the barley; rather than a traditional malting process, which can create funky, savory flavors, they use koji (not the berry, but a microorganism commonly used in sake production) to break down the barley more efficiently. An added benefit of this method is how it allows more of the clean, fruity character of the barley to come through, while retaining the mouthwatering umami of the grain. Complimented by rich sherry, it is a true delight to drink. If you like those higher-priced items and lament the bygone days when you could buy them with no hesitation, you owe it to yourself to try this.
Price:
$99.99
Wattie Boone & Sons 9 Year Old K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #1136 Cask Strength American Whiskey
Review Date: 02-25-2022
Wattie Boone comes to us from the people behind the Preservation Distillery and the Very Olde St. Nick brand. Though not much information is currently available about its mash-bill or distillery of origin, its Tennessee roots and maple-tinged sweetness would suggest to me a partnership with Jack Daniels. The re-used, re-charred barrel disqualifies it from being considered bourbon or Tennessee whiskey, but the spirit is immediately compelling. Nougat and vanilla upfront give way to pleasant cinnamon spice, a healthy dollop of maple syrup and subtle citrus peel. Though the flavors at first seem big and primary, the whiskey displays nuanced notes of nutmeg, dusty cocoa and a touch of fennel. The warming spice remains a common thread from start to finish, even after a couple of drops of water. That said, the spirit feels remarkably soft and approachable for 118 proof. Purists and die-hard bourbon acolytes may not be thrilled by this stranger at such a steep price-point. However, the broader whiskey fans and folks looking for something new and friendly will find a lot to love here.
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Cascahuin "Tahona" Blanco Tequila (750ml)
Review Date: 02-18-2022
Cascahuin has been one of my favorite producers in tequila since I first sipped tasted their entry level offerings years ago. Their traditional process creates spirits leaps and bounds ahead of most competitors in terms of quality and flavor. Effortlessly balanced and expressive, this entirely tahona-pressed bottling in particular exhibits everything that most blanco tequilas aspire to be. Rustic aromas of dusty herbs and dry earth instantly evoke the region from which this hails. The taste is unbelievably refined, with pure agave sweetness taking center stage, supported by fresh white pepper and chamomile. The finish shows darker fruit tones and a satisfying earthy counterpoint to the ethereal flavors up front. A lingering hint of roasted meat makes this endlessly satisfying to drink. Purists should always have this on the shelf, and those looking to take a step up in the category should look no further.
Price:
$84.99
Rivers Antoine Estate "Rivers" Royal Grenadian Rum (700ml)
Review Date: 11-19-2021
Rivers is more than unaged rum; it is nectar from the gods themselves. Marking the pinnacle for production of this mystifying spirt, calling it "rum" seems almost silly. A perfect culmination of technique and patience, it packs endless, joyous flavor and texture into its unassuming bottle. Intensely fruity and grassy on the nose, you almost forget it's 69% alcohol. Pepper, cardamom, lychee, and tamarind as well as the typical banana, it goes down incredibly smoothly despite its intense concentration. Vanilla and date meld perfectly with its deep, earthy sugarcane tones with a healthy dose of that dusty funk you would expect from a John Dore pot still. Fresh cut grass and thyme add to its already eye-popping complexity and round out the flavors with a lip-smacking freshness that keeps me coming back for more. Be careful with this one, as its grace belies its power, but if you treat it with its due reverence, you'll be handsomely rewarded.
Price:
$69.99
St. George "Baller" Single Malt California Whiskey (750ml)
Review Date: 11-12-2021
This whiskey marks a particular milestone for me in my spirits journey, as it was one of the first esoteric bottlings that challenged my preconceptions about the category. At once delicate and brash, this project showcases the creativity and innovation at work in St. George's oeuvre. Salty, sweet and tart all at once, it boasts nectarine and pluot tang appointing a body of golden cereal malt with a savory and satisfyingly smoky finish. The first sip takes you past the fruit, revealing its softer floral tones that compliment that rich malt, all the while warming the palate with pleasant spice. A cocktail enthusiast's dream, to be sure, this also makes a great gift for any fan of fun whiskey who is looking to branch out.
Price:
$49.99
2000 Xavier Vignon "2000" Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Review Date: 08-18-2021
Truthfully, I could not contain my excitement when I saw these wines had arrived from France. Aged Chateauneuf in and of itself is always a treat, but to see multiple library releases from such an esteemed producer felt like Christmas.
This 2000 vintage is the most muscular and youthful of the three, displaying firm structure and still-taut tannins despite being old enough to legally drink itself. That said, its impressive strength belies its polish and sophistication. Dense, savory and chocolatey at first, it opened up generously in time, showing a soft core of dark cherry, brambly berry, Chinese five spice and lacquered wood. A tremendous bottle for any occasion, this would pair best with a meat dish that matches its power and grace.
Price:
$89.99
Compass Box "Artist Blend" Blended Scotch Whisky (750ml)
Review Date: 04-02-2020
I think blended Scotch gets a bad rap these days. It may lack some of the distinctive traits of the more coveted single malts, when you consider how much cask blending occurs in the massive production at big-name distilleries, you might reconsider any prejudice you may have for the category. Especially because some of it is damn delicious. Enter the Artist's Blend from Compass Box's Great King Street line. Though it's perfectly suited for a wide variety of cocktails (I recently used it for the base in a batch of Penicillin) it's endlessly enjoyable on its own. Vanilla, sweet cream, stewed peach and golden grain meld seamlessly with savory malt, ample spice and a hint of minty peat. The name of the game here is balance - something the blenders at Compass Box are exceptionally skilled at maintaining. That same artistry is at work in all the nationally available single malts, but you can get a bottle of this for a fraction of the price.
Leopold Bros. "Summer" Limited Edition Gin (750ml)
Review Date: 08-09-2019
Personally, I remain adamant that if you're going to use a gin in cocktails, it should be perfectly palatable without adulteration. Leopold's Summer Gin accomplishes that feat with aplomb. It smells like a summer breeze through a picturesque garden complete with citrus trees on the outskirts. The juniper here is ever-present, but by no means aggressive. Clean, fresh, and right on the mark in every respect, it carries its weight with poise and finesse, but there's nothing pretentious about it. This gin would do just as well with a single ice cube as in an extravagant cocktail that looks like a peacock in a Collins glass and costs you an arm and a leg in Hollywood. I highly recommend picking up a bottle before it hibernates for the winter.
Price:
$34.99
McKenzie Bottled in Bond Wheated Bourbon Whiskey (750ml)
Review Date: 11-29-2018
From Larceny to Weller, David Nicholson to Pappy, wheated bourbon has always put a smile on my face. McKenzie's bottled-in-bond offering makes an impressive addition to the list. Alluring aromas of nuts, bananas and roasted corn make a pleasant enough first impression, but tasting this reveals a plethora of tropic fruits and soft spice. The sweet cereal grain is contrasted nicely by citrus peels and bright acid. With a good body and relatively long finish, this should fit nicely into any whisky collection.
Price:
$54.99
Compass Box "Story of the Spaniard" Blended Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml)
Review Date: 10-18-2018
This latest release from Compass Box reflects the mastery of their blending techniques in a bottle everyone can enjoy. Cozy scents of sea air, marzipan and apricot greet you immediately, imploring you to sit and savor the dram. Though relatively light in body, it provides impressive concentration of flavor. Its complex charactger pairs candied citrus and salty caramel with delicate spice and a savory finish. I consider myself fortunate to sample such a friendly, generous whisky; I encourage you to treat yourself to a taste.
Price:
$64.99
Auchentoshan "Three Wood" Lowland Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml)
Review Date: 06-22-2018
The Three Wood beautifully showcases the movement away from age statements and toward creative cask finishes. On the nose, it immediately offers enticing aromas of dried fruit, orange peel, caramelized sugar and ample spice. On the palate, it tastes full and complex despite its three distillations. Vanilla and dry sherry dominate at first but give way to soft tones of toffee and raisins. Typical of lowland malts, the finish brings a lingering nutty sweetness, but with a hint of charred wood. Altogether, it makes for an endlessly enjoyable dram that satisfies most any palate. I highly recommend this bottle for fans of bourbon or Irish whisky trying to break into Scottish single malts. It's also a great pick for scotch drinkers looking for something new in a sherry-focused style.
Price:
$59.99