Staff Favorites - Kirk Walker

Kirk Walker

Reviews

2019 La Rioja Alta "Viña Alberdi" Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 01-23-2025
In any conversation about Rioja, La Rioja Alta will always be brought up. If there were a classification system in Rioja like there is in Bordeaux, La Rioja Alta would be a first growth. They have been one of the most important producers in Rioja since their inception in 1890. Here at K&L we have been championing their Gran Reserva 904 and the Ardanza Reserva for decades. Those wines are consistently great, they are delicious and will just get better for years. What we have not been doing is championing this wine. The Alberdi always gets overlooked. It is because of the price. This is not a wine that needs to develop with more time, nor will it value appreciate in your collection. That is not what this wine is for, this helps keep your hands off of those other bottles in your collection. This wine is not a statement. This is Rioja for casual consumption. That being said, this wine outclasses just about any other everyday Rioja and many other companies' more prestigious bottling. This is an impeccably made wine. *************** *************** *************** This wine does everything that you want a Rioja Reserva to do. The nose is bold and complex. There is an enticing array of dark red fruits and spices, all backed with those classic savory, earthy, and leathery tones. It is textbook Rioja. It smells so good; it is so inviting. All of the aromatic elements are in harmony with each other, with that dark cherry Tempranillo fruit steering the conversation. On the palate it is medium full bodied. It is that perfect weight, just flirting with being full-bodied, but not so big that it would dominate lighter cuisine. The tannins are polished giving the wine an easy texture and just a little extra grip on the finish which then draws your attention away from the fruit and back to those leathery, earthy, spice infused flavors. There is a lot going on with this wine, if you want to pull it apart and investigate, but the charm of this wine is that it does not ask you to do that (maybe it asks me, but I am only going to listen once) this is a wine just to enjoy. This is flavorful but not overwhelmingly so, it effortlessly integrates itself not only into dinner, but into the after-dinner conversation as well. Just like a perfect playlist, it helps set the mood, it doesn’t take anyone out of the moment, but there is just enough there that it can help take the conversation in an unexpected direction. Enjoy

2022 Ayles "Cuesta del Herrero" Tinto Vino de Pago Aragon
Review Date: 01-15-2025
There are so many different ways to approach this wine. 1. This is a delicious Spanish red wine that has great flavors but what makes it truly stand out is its texture. This has that great combination of weight and seamless texture. This wine effortlessly glides across the palate towards an intriguing complex finish. 2. The wine is part of what I like to think of as the “Redescubrimiento”, the rediscovery. Wine in Spain has as deep of a history as Italy and Greece. The whims of history have created the circumstances that Old regions have been rediscovered over the last 30 years. Where this wine is from has even slipped those cracks. Where the vineyard are located, in a near perfect Spanish terroir, adjacent to mountains, near a river, and with dynamic soils. This has been a great place to make wine for centuries, but there is no other major projects nearby. It is a one of one so its rediscovery is even more challenging. 3. This is a “Super-Aroganese ”. I am blatantly stealing the super from Tuscany for this. This wine has two of Spain's most famous varietals, Tempranillo and Garnacha and two of Bordeaux’s; Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This really doesn’t mean anything, and I am probably the only person who would put that appellation on this wine, but the wine delivers in the same way as a “Super-Tuscan”. The native varietals form the core to this wine, the fruit and most of the structure, the French imports add intrigue, bring additional layers of fruit and also fill out the wine in a way that most Tempranillo/Garnacha blends can’t. 4. Finally this is a great deal. There is so much wine here and for under $20.
Price: $17.99 Add To Cart

2018 Miguel Merino Gran Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 12-10-2024
The Gran Reservas from Merino always stand out. That makes sense, it was the great Gran Reservas from the 50’s and 60’s that were the inspiration for the winery. They believe that Gran Reservas are special wines, for special occasions. Just like with the 2018 Reserva, we can see the subtle changes that Miguel Merino Jr has made to the family’s wines. The base of the wine is the same, it is sourced only from their oldest vineyards. It is aged in new French oak for two years and then an additional year in used oak. The oak in the wine is present but not dominating, the first thing that jumps out on the nose is the fruit. This is a dark fruited Rioja with black berries, black cherries and plums. Following the fruit is the oak spice, then a savory earthy element and behind all of that, a lifted floral tone. This is easily the most complex and interesting wine that they offer in what I will call their traditionally styled wines. This is a wine that you want to spend time with just peeling back the layers of aromas. On the plate it is bold and structured. This is a wine with restrained power. The tannins are plentiful, but well managed and polished. This is a wine that is built for the long haul. This has a very long finish, where the dark fruit and the oak spice and intertwined with a persistent minerality. The core of this wine is dark fruit, those dark berries and cherries rest easily on the wine's structure. The fruit has freshness and is only now starting to show the beginnings of maturing tones. This is a special wine. A wine for family dinners on a cold evening; a wine for braises and roasts. A wine for your cellar, this is a wine that I will gladly reach for in 10 or 15 years on one such occasion.
Price: $44.99 Add To Cart

2021 Miguel Merino "Viñas Jóvenes" Rioja
Review Date: 12-10-2024
Not every vineyard can be La Loma. What does that mean? La Loma is one of the jewels of the Merino portfolio. It is a vineyard that was planted in the 1940’s, the vines are bush trained, it is a classic field blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and some white vines too. This is a very special site, and it makes a very special Rioja, it is almost always one of my favorite wines when looking back at the end of the year in my notes. That is not what this is, yet? What I love about this wine is that it is a delicious representation of future potential. Yes, this is a wine that will taste great a few years from now, but it is sourced from vineyards that will eventually be used for their Reserva, Gran Reserva and potentially maybe its own single vineyard. An 80’s vineyard has to be 25 years old at some point! This is not just a young and fruity Rioja. It has a very charming dark fruit character with an intriguing savory, umami element on the nose. There is spice as well as the earth, but the fruit and savory combination of the wine really pulls you in. On the palate is where this surprises and delights. The mouthfeel is wild, it does not behave like a typical young Rioja, it has a brightness and a supple roundness that feels more like the cross between Garnacha and Pinot Noir, however with the weight of Tempranillo. A better way of putting it is this wine feels like it should be bottled in a Burgundy bottle rather than a Bordeaux. That is just the mouthfeel that flavors are all Rioja, those savory elements on the nose transform into that classic old leather and earth tones. There is a nice spice component, tasting like it is from more of the French Oak that is used in the barrels rather than the American oak. There is nice concentration, that dark fruit really comes through and persists on the palate. It has a nice finish; with those dark berry flavors lingering with spice and earth. This wine is built for easy everyday drinking, but their flavors suggest that there is more to this wine. Just like there should be, it is a showcase for the potential of these vines.
Price: $19.99 Add To Cart

2018 Miguel Merino Reserva Rioja (1.5L bottle)
Review Date: 12-10-2024
The wines of Miguel Merino represent the past, present and the future of Rioja, it is a very Christmas Carol construction, you will have to forgive me for taking the liberty. Miguel Merino represents the end of an era. They were one of the last family run wineries that was established that creates traditional wines. The creation of this winery was inspired by Miguel Merino Sr.’s love for the great Gran Reservas from the middle of the 20th century. All new wine projects that started in the 2000’s make a modern expression of Rioja, wines that are terroir driven and not made in a style that is based on oak aging, wines that take inspiration from the broader world of wine. The winery offers both styles of wines. When Miguel Merino Jr started working at the winery, about 10 years ago he brought with him that modern inspiration. Working hand in hand they started incorporating more French oak in the blend for their aged wines. Those classic wines became a little more focused and fresher. And there was the recreation or modernization of their old vine vineyard and the Mazuelo offering. They have wines that are of the now and of the past. And to wrap this all up with the future of Rioja, well, that is already what they do. It is what and why the project started in the first place. The future of Rioja, no matter the style in which the wine is made, is terroir driven wines. Not just wines from the larger subregions, but village wines like what is done in Burgundy and Barolo. Miguel Merino Sr chose the village of Briones, because he thought the wines from that terroir were the best. ***************** The 2018 Reserva is a turning point for the winery. This was the vintage where Miguel Merino Jr, had control from start to finish. What I love about this is that the fundamental character, the core of this wine has not changed. What has changed? It is fresher, more aromatic and is more textural. The brighter red fruited Tempranillos sings on the nose, it is backed by all the classic developed Rioja flavors, the earth, the leather, the spice, but more refined than before. I love the nose, but the palate is where this wine shines. Not that these wines were ever coarse, but there is a suppleness to this that has never been present. It feels a little more like the “modern” wines that they offer. The fruit tones are dynamic with a range of fresh and maturing red and dark berries and fruit. It is full bodied with polished tannins. The balance of the wine is great, not one element stands out. The finish is long, with the fruit, oak spice and the earthy minerality of Briones lingering and lingering. While I believe that all Rioja is better with a meal, the balance of the fruit and texture of this wine also make it hard to resist while waiting for whatever in the slow cooker to finish cooking.
Price: $69.99 Add To Cart

2018 Miguel Merino Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 12-10-2024
The wines of Miguel Merino represent the past, present and the future of Rioja, it is a very Christmas Carol construction, you will have to forgive me for taking the liberty. Miguel Merino represents the end of an era. They were one of the last family run wineries that was established that creates traditional wines. The creation of this winery was inspired by Miguel Merino Sr.’s love for the great Gran Reservas from the middle of the 20th century. All new wine projects that started in the 2000’s make a modern expression of Rioja, wines that are terroir driven and not made in a style that is based on oak aging, wines that take inspiration from the broader world of wine. The winery offers both styles of wines. When Miguel Merino Jr started working at the winery, about 10 years ago he brought with him that modern inspiration. Working hand in hand they started incorporating more French oak in the blend for their aged wines. Those classic wines became a little more focused and fresher. And there was the recreation or modernization of their old vine vineyard and the Mazuelo offering. They have wines that are of the now and of the past. And to wrap this all up with the future of Rioja, well, that is already what they do. It is what and why the project started in the first place. The future of Rioja, no matter the style in which the wine is made, is terroir driven wines. Not just wines from the larger subregions, but village wines like what is done in Burgundy and Barolo. Miguel Merino Sr chose the village of Briones, because he thought the wines from that terroir were the best. ***************** The 2018 Reserva is a turning point for the winery. This was the vintage where Miguel Merino Jr, had control from start to finish. What I love about this is that the fundamental character, the core of this wine has not changed. What has changed? It is fresher, more aromatic and is more textural. The brighter red fruited Tempranillos sings on the nose, it is backed by all the classic developed Rioja flavors, the earth, the leather, the spice, but more refined than before. I love the nose, but the palate is where this wine shines. Not that these wines were ever coarse, but there is a suppleness to this that has never been present. It feels a little more like the “modern” wines that they offer. The fruit tones are dynamic with a range of fresh and maturing red and dark berries and fruit. It is full bodied with polished tannins. The balance of the wine is great, not one element stands out. The finish is long, with the fruit, oak spice and the earthy minerality of Briones lingering and lingering. While I believe that all Rioja is better with a meal, the balance of the fruit and texture of this wine also make it hard to resist while waiting for whatever in the slow cooker to finish cooking.
Price: $29.99 Add To Cart

2021 Per Se "Inseparable" Malbec Gualtallary
Review Date: 11-21-2024
Autumnal mountain Malbec. What the heck do I mean? This wine captures the feeling for me of standing in the sun in the autumn. How when the wind is calm the solar radiation can make you feel just as warm in the summer but when the wind picks up, you suddenly want a puffy jacket. There is also a quality of light; brighter yet more diffuse, coming at you from a different angle, making us refocus and take in the same surroundings from a new perspective. I love this time of year. I love how this wine captures a similar feeling. The aromatics intense yet restrained. That charming Malbec fruit is present in with perfect balance of sweet and tart, that basket of mixed berries perfectly ripe but with pop, ideal for tarts! There is ease and depth to the fruit and surrounding it all is a mix of earthy mountain herbs, with their high and low tones. All of that with an extra aromatic push. It is a delight to smell. After a 30 minute decant, the wine rewards us with an incredibly supple texture, it is silky but solid. The wine has a polish to it, yet it does not feel polished. This is the combination of great terroir, great viticulture and great winemaking. This is a Malbec, that is obviously Malbec but unlike other Malbecs. Those charming layers of fruit are present on the palate, dark cherries, with a wild mix of pluots and black berries. There is delicate earthiness, and those wildflowers and herbs add additional complexity. What this wine has none of is oak. This is a pure expression of Malbec and Gualtallary. This elegantly structured Malbec is a magician at the table, the silkiness and soft tannins make this a great substitute for Pinot Noir (especially for those looking for a bigger wine) and the body of this wine is substantial enough for red meat (the aromatics have me imagining a holiday roast). Whatever is at the table this is a wine that will elevate the experience.

2021 Lagar de Costa "Maio5" Albarino Rias Baixas
Review Date: 11-19-2024
Thank goodness for granitic sands, without them we would not have the old vines from which this wine was made. This wine is awesome! I have had the good fortune of trying many old vine bottlings of Albariño but I have not had one like this. Typically, they are powerhouses, they are broad and deep. This has a complexity to it that I normally do not see with the varietal. There is a pure fruit tone and then herbs and roots and stones... I cannot put my finger on all of them. It is so intriguing, so inviting, that I almost hesitated in taking that first sip. I shouldn’t have, the wine starts off pure cool fruits, it is medium bodied and has some texture to it, and then, boom. The intensity of the flavors rise, the fruit seems to concentrate and minerality shimmers. Here the saline notes become more delicate, and the wine speaks more of the bedrock, less sand, more stone. Long and focused, this has a finish Grand Cru Chablis would be jealous of. The finish goes and goes and those complex aromatic layers on the nose come back; this finishes just like it starts. I have heard winemakers say that old vines speak more of their place than younger vines. I need to see where these vines speak of.
Price: $29.99 Add To Cart

2021 Lagar de Costa "Tradicion" Albarino Rias Baixas
Review Date: 11-19-2024
What could be the best wine tradition of Spain, is producers holding on to their wines. The gift of time. There is something about how even just a year makes a difference. One of my favorite expressions for this is “settled”. There is a more relaxed feeling to these wines. What normally comes to mind are red wines, Reservas and Gran Reservas, but it is a thing with white wine too. The first sniff of this wine gives me that impression. It is not oaky aromas, there are some faint French oak notes here, but the aromas have more delineation. Almost as if viewed through a prism. It is not that extreme but for me there is just more distance between the layers of citrus, stone and tropical fruits. The soft herbal and white floral tones have more space but shaded.... sorry, it is getting late, but I hope that this makes some sense. It is that shading, that soft delineation that is the settled thing. And then on the palate, those flavors are focused! Not quite laser like, but all the fruit becomes coiled around the fresh acid and a saline minerality. The wild thing is it is not tart. Mouthwatering, but not aggressive, and long. The fruit softens and lingers and fascinating to me, those other flavors reappear on the finish bringing another layer to this wine.
Price: $24.99 Add To Cart

2021 Lagar de Costa "Calabobos" Albarino Rias Baixas
Review Date: 11-19-2024
This was named after the region's light rain and it begs the question, was it named before or after the wine was made? The use of Concrete egg does enhance the saline quality of the wine; that marine layer salty tang to the air quality. I love it when a wine or spirit has that quality. I love it when the sea reasserts its presence to me, it is surprising how often it does not, but that has nothing to do with this wine. The wine is not all salt and sea shanties, the most prominent element on the nose is the fruit. The additional aging does help the wine exert more fruit character. Those peach/apricot tones are deeper and accented with tropical tones. There are also subtle floral and herbal elements to this. This has a surprisingly complex nose. The intensity of the nose is more than matched on the palate. Those fruit tones are contrasted to mouthwatering fleur de sel notes, I can almost imagine a thin crystal dissolving on my tongue on this wine’s very long finish. In the space between the fruit and the minerality those pretty floral and herbal tones reside; they quietly persist alongside the most intense flavors. What a wine; It is, and it isn’t an amplification of the Albariño. I find myself with a desire for cioppino, grilled fish, croquettes...
Price: $27.99 Add To Cart

2023 Lagar de Costa Albarino Rias Baixas
Review Date: 11-19-2024
Bright and fresh. It has a simple aromatic freshness that I want to describe as “Spring time” like. There is a light easy lift to it; modest stone fruit tone, a soft diffused green quality, call it herbs but maybe just shoots? And that oceanic saline quality that you want from Albariño from the region. The softly inviting nose is greeted with much more intensity and concentration on the palate. The ease of the nose is matched with an effortlessness on the palate. This wine glides across the palate. The flavors have impact and persistence, but the wine moves; it is clean and crisp. It lingers with muted stone and citrus fruits and a gentle saline minerality. This wine is dangerously good. I was done with the first sip, and I already wanted the next one. This is a “on the boat or by the pool” wine if I have ever had one. It doesn’t matter if it is almost winter, this is a charming aperitivo, this will brighten up almost anyone's day.
Price: $17.99 Add To Cart

2019 Dominio de Atauta "La Celestina" Crianza Ribera del Duero
Review Date: 11-19-2024
Dominio de Atuata was the first nerdy Ribera del Duero that I had. It should not surprise you that I loved it. This was a wine that had such a pure expression of Tempranillo that I had to stop and pay attention. Not to mention that the wine making had more in common with avante garde wines that were being made in the Loire and the Rhone at the time. That was an exciting wine. It was one of the first wines that I had pointed to what was to come from Spain. That was 20 vintages ago! ******* The pleasure and the excitement that I felt when trying that wine all those years ago when trying wine from this producer still exists. What I love about this wine is how I was caught off guard with this wine. This wine is not challenging the status quo. Dominio de Atauta has been so successful for so long that they have changed what the status quo is. That being said, this is not avante garde, this is conventional, in the best possible way. This is a wine for everyone. I love this expression of Tempranillo. Cooler climate, high elevation Tempranillo. What does that mean, this is that beautiful dark fruited Tempranillo, lifted blackberries, plums, dark cherries, a hint of dark chocolate, oak spice (sweet and savory), and with a dusty, floral, herbal backnote. This smells like what I want Ribera del Duero to smell like! On the palate the fruit really comes to the forefront. More cherries but plenty of dark fruit too. It is full bodied. The tannins are present, restrained, managed and polished. That fruit rests on top of them, there is a charming mid-palate roundness. There is a brightness and ease to it. Just beneath the tannins the terroir really jumps out. It has that distinct limestone minerality unique to Ribera del Duero. The wine finishes cleanly, you are left with fading dark fruits and a faint dusty windblown herbal quality. This is a Red that just wants to be drunk. It is a grab another bottle, we don’t need to leave just yet kind of red.

2022 Celler del Roure "Vermell" Valencia
Review Date: 11-19-2024
Here is a surprisingly fresh Mediterranean red. Or maybe it shouldn’t be? Cellers del Roure has been making wines that have expanded the potential and expectations of wine from Valencia for decades. First with making bold internationally style wines, that were the fashion in the late 90’s early 00’s. They then made quite a change, instead of pursuing the now, they chose to look to the past. It is easy to do so when you purchase property and there is a centuries old winery located on it. Here the historical variety is Mando. This is a variety with a great deal of potential because it maintains high levels of acidity throughout the ripening process. This is the varietial that brings freshness, that high toned red fruit, that subtle mouthwatering on the finish. That is blended with the unique varietal Alicante Bouschet. This is a hybrid varietal that was created in the South of France but never took off there. It has found a place to shine on the Iberian Peninsula. Both here in Spain and in Portugal it can make intense red wines with lots of fruit with a wild (not funky) character. The Mando tames and focuses the Garnacha Tintorera (the local name), the Garnacha Tintorera brings a depth of fruit, more midpalate umph, and intrigue. This is an exceptional “Southern” Spanish red that drinks like a cross between Beaujolais and a Southern Rhone red. Bright, round, softly textured, charming and versatile this is a wine that makes sense to pair with not only the local favorite, paella, but holiday fare as well. It is also super cool that the winery where it was made is ancient. It was discovered 300 years ago! The wine was aged for a short period of time in a refurbished amphora from the same era!
Price: $17.99 Add To Cart

2018 Hermanos Hernaiz "Finca La Emperatriz" Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 11-13-2024
I am really excited to be able to sell these wines. There are a lot of good Riojas out there but there is something special about this wine. I am a geek. I am always looking to learn more. This wine does that, but at the same it flips a switch and turns off that side of my brain. The combination of all the aromatic elements is almost perfect for me. It is balanced, nothing stands out, there is a harmony to the wide array of classic Rioja aromatics here. It smells great when the bottle is first opened and it proceeds to get better and better. With their white wine I have are hard time giving it an easy reference point. With this it is easy, think of the Reserva Especial from Muga. But then you have to brighten it, there are more red fruits here, and then you have to add a little American oak, this has a more traditional array of aromas and flavors than that wine, but the poise, the mouthfeel, almost the polish (this wine feels more polished without feeling over polished, sorry). There is great intensity on the palate, it is mouth filling with a dark cherry/pomegranate like fruit tone. The oak is there but in the background adding spice and rounding off the tannins. Speaking of background, there is a distinctive minerality that seems to build and build. It builds the same way the best Pessa Leognan does, think Haut Bailly or Domaine du Chevalier, except here it is slightly more present and higher toned? This wine has a finish that goes and goes. That dark red fruit is enhanced with layers and layers of fine spice, a touch of earth, and that minerality. There are all these things happening but it is the fruit that is the start, it is ripe, pure, and has depth and dimensionality to it. This tastes like great Rioja, but it does not taste like any other Rioja. This comes from a special place and tastes like it. I will be having a bottle or two of this over the Holiday season. There will be a bottle or two that will be going into my collection.

2018 Hermanos Hernaiz "Finca La Emperatriz" Blanco Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 11-13-2024
I love this expression of White Rioja. There is an elegance to this that shouldn’t be unexpected but I feel is unexpected. Minerals, white flowers, and an incredible synergy of subtle exotic woods and the woodsy herbal notes (I love this! It is a subtle background note, but trying to pin that combination of components is maddening!). I keep on putting my nose in the glass! On the palate the first thing that I notice is the focus and the minerality. What I really love about that is that the minerality here plays very differently than from the whites that are sourced from the Sonsierra region of Rioja. This is a wine from a very unique terroir, and it tells you that immediately. The problem with trying to describe this wine is that it has so few peers to make an easy reference to. Texturally this feels somewhere between a white Bordeaux and white Burgundy, leaning more towards the former but the mid palate makes me think of the latter. There are two incredible Rioja characteristics: the freshness and the composition of it. Here the time and oak and all the additional bottle age have this wine composed, integrated, and settled. Rioja, red and white, at its best can showcase this. The fruit, even being almost 6 years old, is so fresh. There is almost no sign of age to this. The fruit tones are cool, ranging from citrus, to pear to melon and something tropical. Old vines and careful winemaking can make Viura into a varietal that will capture your attention. And back to the minerality, it has been delicately but persistently present, from the first sip to the lingering finish. I want to call this a show stopper, but it is too reserved of a wine to be called that. I don’t know what I want to call it but I know I want to drink it, and potentially put a few in my collection as well. OK maybe we call this a game changer…..

2022 Celler del Roure "Cullerot" Blanco Valencia
Review Date: 11-13-2024
I wish I could include a photo here. This wine is made in a very old winery. Now, you can rightly say that there are a lot of wines made in really old wineries. Some even centuries so. But how many are made in a winery that is so old that it was excavated 300 years ago?! Yeah, excavated. Not created. I could even find out how old it is. This wine was aged in one of the giant amphorae that was part of that excavation. There were about 100 and the winery is using just a few of those. I must admit. I like this wine even more because of that. How cool is that? OK, now this is a blend of what could be called heirloom varietals, some of the oldest to be found on the peninsula (Pedro Ximenez, Malvasia, and Macabeu) and unique forgotten varietals from the region (Tortosina, Verdil, Merseguera). These are all varietals that can ripen and maintain acidity in this warm region. Stainless steel fermented and then aged for a few months in those ancient amphorae. This is a fresh, intriguing Mediterranean white. With subtle layers of flowers, herbs and fruit on the nose. It has some texture, thanks to the amphora and some of those more unusual varietals, and a clean lingering finish. Wines like these are what makes Spanish wine so much fun. This is a rediscovery on so many levels, region, winery, winemaking and varietals. It is intellectually satisfying but more importantly so tasty and reasonably priced.
Price: $19.99 Add To Cart

2012 López de Heredia "Viña Bosconia" Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 11-07-2024
This is a ridiculous deal for an incredible wine. This is one of the great Rioja Reservas from one of the greatest Rioja producers. It is twelve years old, and this is their current release. It is surprisingly youthful and fresh for its age. Even more so when you hear that this wine spent five years aging in oak barrels. They are a family winery. It is the family aspect of the winery, and the keeping of their families' traditions, which makes it so special. They have been making wine the same way for over a hundred years! With tweaks here and there, but the current generation is creating wines with the same vision as the great grandfather. They believe in what they are doing and have not changed in that time. The world and wine fashions have changed around them, and they have stayed their course. Like the best artists, they make the art for themselves, an audience will eventually find them. I am very passionate about their wines. What makes Bosconia great is the aromatic balance. You pop the cork, and everything is there. This is Rioja. There is the earth, the leather, the mulled fruit, and a mellow spice. There are some high tones and deeper darker tones, but it is all integrated and balanced, nothing stands out. This wine is composed upon release. I guess that is to be expected when the current release is 2012. This wine spent 5 years in barrel and then has been resting in bottle since. I am grateful for that. On the palate the balance shifts a little, in the best possible way. The fully integrated fruit on the nose takes the lead and becomes the canvas for all those other flavors. Dark cherry fruit is the core of this wine, and it is here where I think Bosconia becomes Bosconia, the core of this wine rounded, think more like a Rhone or Pinot than a Cabernet. It is on that curve which shines. All that spice, earth, and leather move around it, it gives this wine, especially with the intense youthful quality of its fruit, a particular energy. It has a surprising concentration; it builds on the palate and then blossoms on the very long and very nuanced finish. What I love about this is it is not a showstopper wine. You notice and appreciate it immediately but the more time you spend with it, it just gets better and better. It quietly forces you to pay more attention. What a wine! This is the season for this wine. Think braises, stews, and roasts. Beef, pork, duck, or mushroom. Something rich and savory. This wine still has a long life ahead of it, it is 12 now but I can easily see this wine being delicious beyond its 25th birthday. I know I will be hiding a few bottles away for that day.

2010 Bodegas Casa Juan "Señor de Lesmos" Gran Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 11-03-2024
Now this is a special occasion wine that needs no special occasion! Gran Reserva is a special style of wine, they are not made every year because not every year does the wine have the ability to spend the time in oak to qualify for the category and come out the other side as not too oaky. This wine, at 14 years old, has come out the other side of the time in oak and additional time in bottle like it was nothing! What do you mean? There is a crazy amount of still fresh dark berry fruit to this wine. It takes a second to find it, you have to look past the ridiculous complexity of the spice, mixed fresh and dried herbs, leather, exotic woods to find it but it is there, and once you find it, it just grows and grows and grows. What a nose! There are only a handful of wines from around the world that can offer such an aromatically complex nose, and not at this price point! It is on the palate that you get a sense of the age of the wine. It is in the softer tannins, the round mellow settled-in thing that happens with older Rioja. It has an ease to it, you can tell that it does not want to try and impress you. You get it or you don't, that's fine with it. There is still a freshness to the dark berry fruit too. It is medium weight, mellow and complex. This is a wine for hanging out and nibbling on some cheese or a really great, simply prepared cut of meat.
Price: $29.99 Add To Cart

2017 La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza" Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 10-25-2024
It is hard not to get excited about a wine that smells this good! Great Rioja smells like nothing else; it exists in a category all by itself. The aromatic complexity of this wine is off the charts. I challenge everyone to find a bottle with this much aromatic complexity at this price point. The nose has depth and breadth, and this has a subtlety that the last two vintages did not exhibit. The range of spices, both baking and savory, the dried herbs, an exotic balsam with a high note of something like Frankincense and a low of Myrrh. All of that over a clean dusty leathery quality that speaks of the reserve sections in Libraries with the white gloves and the hushed tones. With all of that overlaid on top of a restrained mix of dark berries that are at the perfect transition point between fresh and baked. But it is not pungent nor overwhelming, it is composed and settled, and every component feels like they are working to enhance all of the others. All of that on the nose! It makes me very happy smelling this wine. On the palate that composed quality carries over. The texture of this Ardanza is spectacular, there is a seamlessness to the wine, the tannins are already integrated and delicately polished. There is a freshness that pulls the wine across the palate, but it feels like it is gliding. Thai is a medium full-bodied wine, that might not be as powerful and muscular as the previous vintages but the balance and gracefulness more than makes up for that. It makes me think more of a panther compared to a tiger. The fruit is at the fore on the palate. Those dark red fruits have just transitioned from fresh to baked but without and over concentration or sweetness. The layers of spices play against an earthy leathery tone and then linger on the finish. The complexity of the aromatics doesn’t quite carry over to the palate but the texture more than makes up for that. This is another great Ardanza, showing us why this is such an important wine. It is so delicious right now, that I am already thinking about holiday meals. However, with a little more time I feel that flavors will only deepen, and we will see even more complexity.

2021 El Escocés Volante "El Puño" Garnacha Aragon
Review Date: 10-17-2024
Part of the fun for me, for all wine, is the discovery process. Here is a wine that has a generic regional appellation. While that in and of itself is unimportant, it does speak to the region's deep history of winemaking, and to how relatively young the commercial demarcation of regional appellations is. While we do not know the history of the vines, we do know that they are old, 70 to 100 years old. We know that they are grown at over 1000m in very poor and stony quartzite rich soils. They are low yielding dry farmed bush vines. These are vineyards that everyone who lives in the region is aware of, but this is the country and a little off the beaten path. Winemakers from all over Spain and the world (with this wine - Scotland!) have come to this region to seek out Garnacha! This area is the birthplace of the varietal and there are a lot of old vineyards, these old vineyards are one of Spain's relatively untapped resources. And for curious wine lovers, these vineyards present new terroirs to explore the expression of the varietal. This is something new, something delicious, just waiting to be discovered. **** ***** It is common to use a grocery list of fruits and berries to describe a wine. We all know what they taste like and can easily image those flavors in wine because we have experienced them innumerable times. There are wines, and this is one of them, where that is harder to do. Not that it is lacking fruit but there is no easy way to describe it. Yes, you can throw cherry, strawberry black and blueberries at this and it will all stick, but there is something so much more than that about this wine. It is funny, to me, with decanting (I would suggest an hour), the flavors of this wine are so dynamic that naming fruits is uninteresting. This wine seems to capture a time lapsed exposure to fruit; it starts at the just slightly tart and underripe and then expands and shades into perfectly ripe and then will just hit that moment just past peak, where it is a little deeper, not over ripe but at an interesting transition point. It has a three-dimensional quality to it; the flavors have a shape (call it generic berry) and then there are color components to it. It starts shading from the top from brighter red to a darker red, then to purple and blue. I love it when wine does this. And what jumps out to me is that this dynamic ambiguousness is not something that I regularly attribute to Garnacha, but to Pinot Noir. And not just any Pinot but Burgundy. One of the first places that my mind went to when tasting this wine was Burgundy! This is Garnacha, and not only that, but it was also grown in a place that is more than twice the distance from Beaune than Beaune is from Chateauneuf du Pape! It helps that this wine has great acidity and very refined tannins, it is balanced and energetic. It has more substance and mouthfeel than a Pinot Noir, not to mention the mountainous herbal floral accents that it has. It finishes clean with a bright lingering fruit that plays against and earthy stoniness. This is an incredible wine. The balance, the energy, it is dynamic and complex and avoids all of Garnacha’s typical pitfalls of being higher in alcohol, dilute and simple. There are many incredible Garnacha based wines from Spain, this wine needs to be added to that list. And for the price point! It has an old school Burgundian dynamism at an old school (classic) Chateauneuf du Pape price. If this was from anywhere else, it would be at least 2 to 3 times the price. With its quality and those reviews, I would not be surprised that it will cost that much in less than 10 years. This is a Spanish wine and a producer to keep track of.
Price: $29.99 Add To Cart

2021 Bodega La Cartuja Priorat
Review Date: 09-19-2024
Priorat is one of the most exciting wine regions in all of Spain. Priorat the wines, and the story, are foundational to my love of Spanish wines. Why, the first part should be obvious, the wines are delicious. Priorat the place and vineyards are incredibly romantic. An isolated region, in the mountains, with incredibly rocky soil. It is rocky, you can easily describe it as steep slopes of rocks and vines with some wild herbs. It is also a “rediscovered” region. I love the idea of young winemakers looking to all but abandoned historical growing regions for their opportunities to start their own projects. Priorat was one of the first and probably the biggest successes. Spain is full of these regions, for many reasons, and I it is one of my favorite things about it. Spain is about discovery. Wine is about discovery. What is great about the Cartuja is that Priorat is now an established region, one of the most important in the country and now there is a movement in response to the wines that were made when the region first caught everyone's attention. When most people think Priorat they think of powerful, big, and extracted wines. Like in regions the world over, things are changing. Priorat is a short drive from Barcelona. It is a dynamic city with a very vibrant wine culture. What is sought out there are fresher, lighter wines that are produced in “cleaner” more sustainable ways. Producers in Priorat are paying attention to this, and Cartuja is a wine that is made with those desires in mind. This is an organically farmed wine, and they pay as much attention and take as much care in the winery. Having a light touch in the winemaking allows for the aromatic side of Garnacha and Carignan shine. It is not an exaggeration to say that this is a pretty wine. The mix of fresh ripe berries, both red and dark, accented with muted herbs and flowers, all over a stony/earthy note. Those aromas are translated to the palate, where the fruit takes on a touch more ripeness while it rolls along the palate. There is a dynamism to this wine, it is vibrant and energetic not bulky and powerful. It is not a light delicate wine, even if the flavors would suggest that it is medium/med full bodied with enough tannins to frame and provide grip, and clean but not tart finish. It is here, on the finish where the stony origins of the wine show, the is that classic lingering llicorella minerality. It is there, against that stony backdrop that the fruit echoes deepening and lengthening the wine. It is this lighter expression of the region which presents more opportunities for pairing and drinking. This doesn’t require a weighty rich meal, it will pair deliciously with it, as a contrasting element. This is a wine made for lighter Mediterranean cuisines (from all around the sea) but American cuisines too. For me this is a perfect Weeknight wine, it is ready for whatever your busy schedule presents to you and is just great before or after dinner just by itself.
Price: $19.99 Add To Cart

2020 Bodegas Merayo "Las Tres Filas" Mencía Bierzo
Review Date: 09-14-2024
The story of Bierzo is one of rediscovery, most of the biggest names in the region are names that are new to the region. The Merayo family had the most important winery in the region up until Spain joined the European Community in the mid 80’s. Not too long after that Pedro Merayo closed the family winery, and solely invested his efforts into revitalizing the building of the family's vineyards. It was during this period that the region was “rediscovered”, and its development and the growth inspired the building of a new family winery. This most recent incarnation of Bodegas Merayo came into being in 2010. The heart of this project is the families' vineyards which they farm sustainably, without the use of herbicides, and focus on the maintenance of biodiversity in and around the vineyards. The Las Tres Filas takes its name from the vineyard where the fruit is sourced. A vineyard where most vines range from 80 to 100+ years old and is planted exclusively to Mencia. The soil is rich in clay with lots of stones. The winemaking is simple, stainless steel fermentation, and then resting in oak for 6 months. This is a wine that speaks of place, that is what is so exciting about Mencia, it transmits its terroir in the same way that Pinot Noir does. Biezo is tucked away in the Mountains that border Castilla and Galicia, and the wines speak of these Mountains; wild and herbal, with lots of sun tempered by cool nights and the lingering influence of the Atlantic Ocean. The Las Tres Filas is no exception, and where it shines is how you can feel the clay in this wine. There is a breadth and generosity to the nose and the palate. The higher toned red fruits are backed by darker fruits, there is lift and focus, but with no edge. The “wildness” that is present in so many wines from the region is almost domesticated, it is there but subdued and works with as opposed to against the wine. The palate is round and expansive, with fine tannins that start expressing themselves towards the finish, at a point where a stony minerality is expressed, which enhances both. The flavors are dark and brighten towards the finish. I have always liked to say the Mencia can be a little like Northern Rhone Syrah and Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, the finish on this wine is the perfect encapsulation of that comparison. It is dark and rich with a subtle savory tone and it is also fresh and layered with intriguing herbal tones. This is a wine that is an incredible value. It is one of the best introductions to the region that we have had in a while, but will absolutely satisfy long time enthusiasts.
Price: $19.99 Add To Cart

2022 Bodegas Colomé "Auténtico” Malbec Valle Calchaquí Salta
Review Date: 08-28-2024
Colome is the oldest continuously run winery in Argentina, they have been making wine since 1831. The Autentico Malbec is a nod to the wines that were made in the region generations ago. To give you a little more context, Salta is more than 700 miles North of Mendoza and more than 900 miles Northwest of Buenos Aires. This is an isolated corner of the country; it is a 20-hour car ride from the capital. The logistics of making wine in a region like this are different. All the tanks and barrels that we picture in our minds' eyes when we think of wineries were extraordinarily expensive to import. The best technology to use was concrete. All fermentation and aging of wines were done in concrete tanks of various volumes. That is how this wine was made, all in concrete.There is something special about Malbec grown in the Salta Valley. There is an extra-ness to these wines. The high elevation, the extreme climate, the daytime/nighttime temperature shifts, and the intense ultraviolet radiation all add up to Malbec that is different than those from further South. Where I notice this first is with the color of the wine. I will be the first to admit that I only note a wine’s color has an extreme element to it. All the red wines from this region have an intense almost saturated quality to them. The grapes need thicker skin to deal with the increased UV. Thicker skins mean more pigment, which makes for more colorful wines. The next thing I notice is the aromatics. This wine has all the classic Malbec notes that you want. The darker berries and red fruits, there is also an earthiness with floral and herbal notes. I am captivated by this style of Malbec, the lift and pull of fresh and savory tones. Those dynamics are even more present on the palate. These are the notes to look for from the region, and the use of concrete accentuates those notes. Those herbs, the violet-like florals, and a dry, textural earthiness all have a focus that you typically do not see when French oak is involved. The tannins are fine, there is some grip to it, and that’s where the concrete pays off too. It helps shape the wine and gives the wine a little more pull towards the finish. On top of all those elements is the fruit; it's very pretty, complex and saturated. Charming, complex and deep. I am a big fan of Malbec made by Colome; I love how this wine expresses terroir, a very special and unique terroir, and does so in a way that showcases the traditions of the region.

2020 Sierra Cantabria Crianza Rioja
Review Date: 08-18-2024
I love the style of this wine. The wines of Sierra Cantabria are classic but a little more fruit forward. They were one the the producers in the 80’s that started innovating towards a fresher styles of wines. All of their wines are made with their own estate fruit. They have vineyards in some of the best terroir in Rioja, in the Sonsierra around the village of San Vicente. They farm organically and use sustainable practices. This is 100% Tempranillo that was aged for 14 months in a mixture of French and American Oak barrels. The first thing that you notice about this Rioja is the fruit. It is dark cherry and intense. It is backed with a savory spice and oak. It is not the most complex wine but the sum of all of its parts make the nose on this wine pop. 2020 was a very good vintage in Rioja, it was warm and the yields were lower and you can sense that in this wine. The fruit is ripe and pure, but concentrated. That classic Rioja oak framework is present but it has a restrained quality to it, this is a fruit first wine. On the palate it is medium full bodied, the tannins are present but polished. They give the wine some umph but do not dominate. The flavors have more depth and intrigue than the nose. There is some intrigue, a touch more earth, a little more spice, more depth and breadth to the fruit. The excitement on the nose is delivered on the palate. This Crianza delivers all the classic versatility of its style with fresh and modern twist.

2021 San Pedro Sideral, Cachapoal Valley
Review Date: 08-05-2024
I love that this wine is framed as a blend. It could legally be labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, and it might be easier to sell as such, but this wine is so much more than just another Cabernet Sauvignon. 2021 was a very good vintage in Chile and in the Central Valley in particular. It is a balanced vintage, there was a good amount of rain during the winter and the growing season was long and without any major heat spikes. This wine speaks to those climatic conditions. The fruit is bright, deep, and complex. It is the fruit that captures my attention first. The heart of this wine is Cabernet, and it is that red fruited Cabernet. There are deeper layers to this, not only darker shades of red fruits but dark berries and fruits too. Those tones slowly shift and deepen the more time that is spent with this wine. That depth comes from the blend, the Carmenere and Syrah, not to mention the Petit Verdot. Along with the layers of fruit these varietals also give the wine a savory, spicy quality. They are not pronounced, but they do add additional layers, some intrigue, and present flavors that make the fruit pop in contrast to them. The balance of the vintage is seen in the balance of this wine, there is a verticality to it, a sleek and refined feel, without a sense of being over polished. The tannins are fine and present, they give the wine presence and a dry feeling, but not so much so that that this wine requires food, did have a hankering for flank steak the first time that I did try it though. This wine has more finish than a wine at this price point typically does, it is energetic, and fruit driven but there is a subtle earthy tone to it. The vineyards are located on the Andes side of the Cachapoal Valley where the soils are derived for the stony debris of the Mountains. Full bodied and complex, this wine has an easy charm and an understated elegance. A surprising and delicious wine.

2018 Anderson Hill "O Series" Shiraz Adelaide Hills South Australia
Review Date: 07-21-2024
I love how wine can surprise even when you know you shouldn’t be surprised. This Shiraz is the perfect example of that. I should not be surprised how good this is. Shiraz is what Australia is known for. What caught me off guard with this wine was the savory note. That not quite gamey, not quite bacony thing. Those notes that people always associate with Northern Rhône Syrah. This wine has a great combination of dark cherry fruit, that savory note, an eucalyptus lift and a touch of cracked pepper. The bottle age has let these notes settle and meld, it makes me think of how much better my beef stew is the next day. The tannins are relaxed, present but easy. The cooler climate appellation shows itself with there being enough acid to keep it fresh behind that mix of flavors. Wines like this are what make wine so much fun.

2022 Quinta da Aveleda "Solos de Granito" Alvarinho Minho
Review Date: 07-18-2024
Sorry, this is the same opening paragraph for the Granito, keep reading if you are starting here if not skip to the break. The Solos wines from Aveleda are wines that I have been looking forward to trying since I first heard about them several years ago. As cork-dork I am always excited about wines that are created to express a facet of a region’s terroir. I love learning about how different elements of a vineyard impact the expression of that vineyard in a final wine. I also love rocks! And who doesn’t like a wine that specifically calls out rocks? And what we have here with the Aveleda Solos collection is Alvarinho being informed by the bedrock beneath the soil. I know that this is not totally accurate, but it works well enough, and if you try both the wines that are being offered the difference is striking! Granito and Xisto (Granite and Schist) and the primary bedrock of Vinho Verde as well as all the Northwestern corner of Iberia. So, these wines are not only a deep dive into a region where most people wouldn’t be able to name more than one of the nine subregions, that time will come, and wines like this are the starting point for that. Another reason to love these wines – they are delicious, they are educational (as always there will be no test, but who knew learning could be some much fun?!) ****** The Granito is striking and undeniable. This is an Alvarinho that has presence, intensity and length, it is all too easy to imagine that this wine comes from the stuff that mountains are made of. This delivers classic core flavors of the varietal, stone fruit, citrus. It is more apricot and grapefruit but there are suggestions of slightly riper fruits too. This wine has presence on the palate, it is not quite full bodied but almost, this degree of intensity is normally found at a much higher price point when shopping for wines from Rias Baixas to the North. That is a perfect segue to point out that the predominant soil in Rias Baixas is granite too. Vinho Verde is a region that is more inland than most of its Spanish neighbor to the North, and that brings an increase in elevation and temperature. While not a hot region it does give the wine a little more body and the fruit a little more breadth. The finish in long and mineral driven, as to be expected. That stony quality that plays along with the mouth water acid not only highlights the fruit but calls out to be paired with something from the sea, shellfish for sure but this can handle meaty, fattier fish, or a delicious and lazy choice canned fish in oil. My mouth is watering just at the idea.
Price: $19.99 Add To Cart

2018 Cellers Grifoll Declara "Gran Predicat" Priorat
Review Date: 07-15-2024
Priorat is one of my favorite wine regions in the world. The wines from are unlike wines from any other place in the world, and they are made with varieties that are grown all over the world. Part of this is the romance of the region, a region that is isolated, with intense, steep rocky vineyards. It is a place that was all but forgotten after their civil war, with many vineyards of very, very old vines. This is a wine that is made from fruit that comes from one of those vineyards, a centenary vineyard planted with Carignan in the Southwest corner of the appellation. Carignan is one of the two core varietals that are the dual heartbeats of the region, the other is Garnacha. Carignon is a variety that is starting to get more acclaim, it rightfully has a tarnished reputation, that happens when you are over cropped and are used to making bulk wines. When its yields are reduced, and they are planted in the right locations Carignan adds amazing depth and intensity to a wine, and when sourced from very special sites it does not need to be blended with anything. This is from one of those sites and is one of those wines. This not only has the special raw material, really, really, old vine Carignan grown in very, very stony slate Llicorella soils, the winemaking is out of the ordinary for the region too. This is aged in 500L French oak barrels, and most importantly, this has additional time in the bottle. It is the time that I think that takes this wine to the next level. Time could be the secret ingredient here. Carignan's intensity needs to be mellowed, and we are just starting to feel the mellowing out of this wine right now. The wine is full and intense. Carignan is not one of the most complicated varietals but age and terroir add extra dimensions to the wine, not to mention the really well used oak. The fruit is dense and dark; mostly cherries there are some darker fruits too. On the nose there is a touch of spice from the oak and the enervating earthy minerality from the soil. The palate is where these wine shines, just like the Predicat, but on steroids. This wine has so much depth, the wine hits your touch and the flavors pop, very similar to the nose but then the floor seems to drop out and those flavors seem to go and go and go. It is almost like wine generates a new axis, the is no longer an x,y,and z, but not there is a d (for depth or if I am being poetic Duende). For me this is one of the best things that wine can do, red, white or otherwise. This wine has that, and it is not incredibly expensive. The finish is clean with the dark fruits resonating against the earthy mineral quality that defines the region. This is wonderful wine from a producer that reinvigorates my enthusiasm for this region. Drink this tonight or put it away for a few more years I think some more time will bring even more out of this.
Price: $39.99 Add To Cart

2019 Cellers Grifoll Declara "Predicat" Priorat
Review Date: 07-15-2024
It is not a perfect comparison, but I think for today's purposes I want to compare Priorat to Chateauneuf du Pape. Now it is not too fetched, the core of their blends is made from Garnacha. Their terroirs are hot Mediterranean, and they are famous for their stony soil (Galets in Chateauneuf du Pape and Llicorella in Priorat). They both have names with a religious origin. They both are some of the most famous wine regions of their countries. ******* Why have I gone out of my way to point this out? Because when was the last time that you purchased a CdP that was regularly priced at $20? It has probably been a while if not never. Here is one. What is even more impressive is that it is farmed organically and sustainably. The value here is off the charts. This hits all the notes that you want from a Priorat. It is medium-full bodied. The aromatics are great, with a mix of red and dark fruits, flowers and that classic background earthiness from the slate soils. This wine overachieves on the palate. It enters polished and fine and then it immediately starts to darken and take on more weight. Darker cherries, plums, the floral component become more subdued, and that Llicorella earthiness builds on the palate. There is nice freshness to this it. Grifoll Declara while having a history of grape growing in the region that goes back to the 19th century their winemaking philosophy is modern. They want wines with fruit, freshness, a sense of place, without imparting too much with their winemaking. This has everything that a Priorat should have, and it is a value. There are other more intense options, but then those wines do not have the versatility that this wine has. This is a satisfying glass of red, with or without food, but the combination of fruit with savory undertones makes this an exciting wine to pair with a wide range of Mediterranean cuisines.
Price: $17.99 Add To Cart

2020 Yllera "Pepe Yllera" Ribera del Duero
Review Date: 07-05-2024
Ribera del Duero is the place to go when you want Tempranillo with a little more power than what you find in Rioja. It is the perfect place to start exploring what Spanish wine has to offer if you are a Cabernet Sauvignon drinker. This could be why this is the region that attracts the attention of so many Bordeaux producers. This is a wine where we can immediately see, but most importantly taste the impact of working with a Right Bank producer. And not just any producer, the former winemaker of Petrus, Jean-Claude Berrouet. The region famed for its power can be tamed especially on the high end, but to find the sense of restraint that this wine possesses, at this price point, is rare. From the outset the nose of the wine tells you that there is something more to the wine. The fruit is vibrant and dark, with immediate charm. There are subtle layers of herbs and oak spice from not only the restrained used of French and American oak, but also the inclusion of Cabernet, it just adds another layer to the Tempranillo. It is full bodied and elegantly balanced, a pleasant surprise for a wine from the region at this price point. The fruit shines all the way to the finish; the dark cherry and fruit tones are focused and balanced with subtle earthy tones, restrained oak, and that unique stony quality that you can find in the best Ribera del Duero's. A great wine to reach for when you want something just a little more substantial than a Rioja but not something that will dominate the meal.

2023 Laberinto "Cenizas de Laberinto" Sauvignon Blanc Maule Valley
Review Date: 07-03-2024
While Chile has for over a decade trying to position themselves as the next place for Sauvignon Blanc, focusing on coastal sites and the extreme South, it still has not happened for them. There are delicious wines to be found, but here in the states it is a challenge to compete with not only our domestic wines, but the wines the Loire Valley and New Zealand too. And then for more than 20 years Rafael Tirado has quietly been making the best Sauvignon Blanc on the Continent. Located in Colbun, which is in the foothills of the Andes in the Maule region. This is a special place to grow grapes and make wine, it is tucked away next to lake Colbun and surrounded by alpine forests. The soil here is very stony and colluvial, mostly of volcanic origin. It is that combination of mountain lake environment and those stony soils that create one of the most delicious Sauvignon Blancs in the world. This wine does everything; the fruit is ripe, it has body and texture, and has very little of the green character that the varietal is known for. At the same time, the fruit's character is cool and restrained, the wine has high acidity and intense minerality. It comes across as both “new world” and “old world” at the same time. It is hard to think of other wines that do this, you normally find a “new world’ wine with an “old world” character, or vice versa, but not both at the same time. I love mineral driven white wines; I love that this is a mineral driven Sauvignon Blanc that is so unlike the classic mineral driven version of the varietal from the Loire. This has a volcanic minerality character closer to something from Mt. Etna or the Canary Islands. Rather than the limestone and flint of Sancerre. It is not all minerality, the fruit is mostly citrus driven but there is a hard to pin down exotic quality to it, both on the nose and the palate. The wine is intense and long, with all the aromatics and flavors playing against the cool acid driven minerality. This is a food wine. If you are an acid head, like me, it is a killer aperitif, but the combination of the citrus driven fruit, the texture and the acid make this a great wine to pair with a meal.

2021 Raúl Pérez "Ultreia St-Jacques" Mencía Bierzo
Review Date: 06-08-2024
Sorry for the formatting, this was written in bullet point. * It doesn’t get better than this. * Old vines, vines that are somewhere between 70 and 100+ years old. * A wine made by the most important winemaker in the region, who makes some of the highest regarded, highly awarded, and most sought-after wines from Bierzo. * Farmed organically. Made in a similar way as his most expensive wines; mostly whole cluster fermentation in large old oak vats, long macerations, and aged for a short period of time in a mixture of used oak of various sizes (225L-1000+L), with as little intervention as possible. * All of that and it is $20! * $20! * Where else in Spain if not the rest of the world can you find that? * This is not a one off, an incredible alignment of perfect conditions to allow a once in a decade accomplishment. This bottling has overachieved for the past 9 years at least (2012 was the first vintage we sold!). And from the beginning it has stayed in the same price range. * Again, where else in the world?! * This is a wine that hits almost all your taste buds (minus the salty but yes on the umami), there is something so satisfying with wines that do this. * This is mountain wine, the wine speaks of hot days and cold nights, with its ripe fruit with just a little snap/acidic bite on the back end. It has wild mountain herbs and a savory wild element. * A delicious and remarkable value, that excels this time of year (it is always great) but with the grill so readily available.... sausages, tri tip, ribs, chicken, you name it, it will work with this wine (sorry I am a carnivore).

2019 Bodegas Muga "Selección Especial" Reserva Rioja
Review Date: 04-30-2024
This could be one of the best vintages of this wine. It helps that 2019 is one of the best vintages in the last 20 years. It is a perfect year for a wine that is made in this style. The best wines of this vintage will be fresh, ripe and concentrated. The vineyards where this wine is sourced from are in the Northwest corner of Rioja, one of the coolest sites in all of Rioja play to the strength of this wine in this vintage. This is one of the more modernly fashioned Rioja’s that Muga makes. This is unmistakably Rioja, but its style leans more towards Bordeaux and Napa than it does to the more Traditional wines of the Region. In fact, this could be the most Bordeaux-like expression that I have experienced from them. And if I could get more specific, the most St. Emilion like. The dark Tempranillo fruit immediately points the way. The polished quality of this wine, the tannins the oak suggest it too. And finally, that earthy minerality that you can find in Rioja, especially from vineyards that are closer to the Mountains, ties it all together for me. The fruit is ripe, pure, and vibrant, the oak use is great (they have their own cooperage on site) it frames, deepens, and adds fine spice tones that play with the inherent spice of the small amounts of Garnacha and Graciano in the wine. The finish is long and layers. That earthy/minerality pulls the wine along and presents a backdrop of the fruit to play against. This is a treat right now and it will just get better.

2020 Benmarco Malbec Uco Valley
Review Date: 04-25-2024
This is an everyday Malbec that is anything but common. BenMarco is a joint project of Susan Blabo and her longtime viticulturalist Edy Del Pópolo. This is a project in which they could work together and express the unique terroirs of the Uco Valley. This Malbec comes from the Uco Valley subregion of Los Chacayes. This region’s first vines were planted less than 30 years ago. It can be an extreme region, with experimental vineyards planted at almost a mile high in elevation, where this fruit is sourced is a more reasonable 3600 feet. The soil here is sandy and rocky, the elevation and its moderating temperatures bring a vibrancy to this wine. Mendoza is a high desert region and I think that the best wine at all price-points a capable of reflecting that. This is vibrantly colored; it feels overly saturated with color. There is more intensity to the aromatics and the flavors. Black berries and pluots with a floral lift, a touch of earth. It is medium-bodied and almost juicy. The tannins are soft and the 11 months in used oak has added a touch of spice and helped round out the wine. A very charming wine.

2022 Domaine Jean-Michel Giboulot Beaune 1er Cru "Clos du Roi"
Review Date: 04-23-2024
This wine pulls off one of my favorite wine tricks. It is very lightly colored, and it has a restrained nose (the type that forces you to sniff and sniff to see what it is all about – and rewards the efforts!). This sets up a certain expectation for the wine, but the wine hits the palate, it is anything but pale and restrained. The intensity of the flavors is 2-3 times what you would expect. I love it when wines do this, Red Burgundy does this often. The fruit tones are darker red berries, there is a very fine oak spice to this, a twist of complexity from some stems and a fine minerality earthiness. Just on that this wine wins. But it also is a very good expression of its terroir, and it finishes clean with good length. It is delicious.
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2023 TWR (Te Whare Ra) Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
Review Date: 04-17-2024
This has become one of the wines that I look forward to the most when our direct import container lands from New Zealand. They craft some of the most exciting Sauvignon Blanc in the world. This vintage is a touch friendlier than the last. The nose is generous, there is a little more tropical fruit and a very subtle green thing. I smell this and imagine that I am relaxing in a resort near Puerto Vallarta! The guava and that fresh tropical green from all of that respiring vegetation. I love this. On the palate it is fresh and clean, almost juicy, and it has a great mouth watering finish. It is all too easy to drink this, by itself or with a meal. I love this, I can almost hear the waves in the background while tasting this wine.

2019 Gómez Cruzado "Blanco de Secundo Año" Rioja
Review Date: 03-12-2024
At first glance this label jumps out. It has an old school feel, like it was designed to catch your attention 100 years ago. Gomez Cruzado was one of the first wineries in the El Barrio de la Estación in Haro. Their founding dates to the same era as the founding of CVNE, La Rioja Alta, and Lopez de Heredia. They were cutting edge and modern in the early 20th century and are positioning themselves the same way in the 21st century. They are crafting classical wines with an eye to the modern consumer. There is no better example of this than their Blanco which they call “Segundo Ano”. Segundo Ano is an old way of labeling and marketing wines; it was more commonly used than Crianza and Reserva. It tells the consumer that the wine was rested in the winery two years from the harvest before it was offered for sale. And in true Rioja fashion this wine was held onto for even longer. That extra time in the bottle works fantastically for this wine. It is a blend of Viura with 25% Tempranillo Blanco. The choice of using the latter varietal is where we can see their modern innovation. ---- Viura is a little like Chardonnay in that way, it can express terroir and can be styled however the winemaker would like but the aromatics and flavors are subdued. Over the last two decades winemakers have been looking towards nonnative grapes like Sauvignon Blanc to add more international personalities to their wines. That is why I think it is exciting to see them use another local variety. Tempranillo Blanco is a varietal that didn’t exist 30 years ago. It is a spontaneous mutation of Tempranillo. Literally one vine in a farmer’s vineyard started producing green grapes instead of Black. Cuttings of that vine were studied, propagated and then approved for use in making Rioja. It brings more pronounced tropical fruit and citrus tones as well as fresh acidity. ---- All the fruit is sourced from a single plot in the hills behind the village of Haro. The soil is calcareous clay with stones. After fermentation the wine is aged in a mixture of neutral French oak and in concrete tanks. The wine has vibrant aromatics of orchard fruits with an exotic twist. The palate is fresh and clean, with the fruit dominating and the oak giving hints of spicy and additional texture. It has focus and energy finishing on a bright mineral-tinged citrus note. There is just a suggestion of the classic oak aged wine from the region but the wine that can easily be substituted for any number of white from the old world or new. Great at the table or an aperitif, enjoy.
Price: $17.99 Add To Cart

2021 Tayu 1865 Pinot Noir Malleco Valley
Review Date: 02-24-2024
Typicity. Value. Discovery. This Pinot delivers. It delivers classic Pinot Noir flavors and structure. The quality of this wine way over delivers the price point. And for most people Malleco might as well be Mars, who knows where it is? It just happens to be one of the coolest growing regions in Southern Chile. When it comes to Pinot Noir, I can be a very hard judge. There are times when I feel very much like an old-timer. A “back in my day” or “when I got started, things were different”, kind of old timer. A lot has changed in the last 25 years. The style of Burgundy that was made back then, is not made anymore. Now there are so many reasons for this, some bad but most for good, but I am not going to get into that. This is a wine that reminds me of that style of Pinot Noir. Cool to cold climate, earthy, old-world Pinot. There are some wines is something that is just around, on the edges here and there, but not at this price point. This was such an exciting wine to try. Malleco was first planted to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but they were inspired by the success of New Zealand and experimented with Pinot. Its climate is like Burgundy, cold and continental. It has longer daytime sunshine hours and is on average colder with the influence of not only two mountain ranges but the cold Southern Pacific Ocean. This is a wine with ripe beautiful fruit, and high acid. This combination is one of the amazing things that Chile, there wines have that old-world structure but new-world fruit. The fruit is high toned; a mix of darker berries with good lift (not quite old school Cote de Nuits, but close). It is light bodied, there are some tannins that give it a little grip, and bright, mouthwatering acidity. You can feel the sunshine in the midpalate, the wine builds and grows with those fruit tones becoming richer. This wine does not finish like a wine at this price point. It is long with the fruit highlighting those savory elements that were on the nose. I love this wine, I love that it is delicious, it's not complicated, just straight forward good tasting. I love that it hits a nostalgic cord for me. I love that it might inspire the curious to take a moment or two to look at the map. This is why wine can be so much fun.

Alvear "Solera 1910" Pedro Ximénez Montilla Moriles (375ml)
Review Date: 12-01-2022
This Pedro Ximénez is bottled indulgence. Sherry is kind of magic, kind of alchemy. To describe the process of making this elixir takes too many words for the space that I have. Here are the highlights. The grapes are harvested, and then allowed to dry in the Southern Spanish sun. The resulting grapes are pressed, but there is so much sugar that it is toxic to the yeast, to all the alcohol in the wine comes from the fortification process. Then the wine enters the solera for years and years of fractional aging (go online if you are curious). This wine comes from a Solera that was established in 1910. This is where the alchemy occurs, young wine is mixed with older wine, all the while oxidizing in partially filled barrels. The final product is beguiling. Viscous. You just need a little bit of this, swirl it around the glass and observe the slow dance of this wine. Praline, maple, sotolon and the words that jump to mind when I am asked to describe the flavors of this wine. It is here where words fail in a way that they do not with other wines. It is sweet but decadent and indulgent are better to use than sweet. There is a depth to this that most “sweet” wines do not have. Think “midnight zone” levels of depth, it is the color that makes me reach for an ocean zone metaphor. But the most straightforward way to think about this wine is as a wine equivalent to DOP Aceto Balsamico. There are so many parallels between these two artisanal products. They are both treasures of intensity, depth, and rarity. And just like Balsamic vinegar, a little of this Sherry goes a long way.
Price: $54.99 Add To Cart

Alvear "1927" Pedro Ximenez Solera Montilla-Moriles (375ml)
Review Date: 10-04-2019
I’ll admit I am a little biased but this could be one of the best dessert wines that we have for sale, especially for the money. We have sold these wines for years, they are great. But like all things wines, we tend to look for all things new, so we end up forgetting. Then we meet them again, with a few more miles (who am I kidding many more miles) down the road. This wine was a revelation. It smells like dessert. Not the bright fresh fruit of other dessert wines. This is holiday bake sale kind of dessert. Molasses and fudge and spices with toffee and caramel. Rum cakes, sticky toffee pudding with concentrated dates and fig thing too. The kid in me is totally satisfied. Then comes savory intrigue. This is not all sweetness. There is tobacco and dried leaves (it makes me think of jumping in piles of leaves, dried leaves). Just enough to layer all of the goodness that came before it. And that is just the nose! Too many words, I know, stay with me, or skip to the end, there is a twist. On the palate it is sweet, its PX, but surprisingly (not the twist) is that it is not cloying. The aromas make you think that your tongue will be coated in syrupy goodness. It isn’t there is a freshness to this, the acid focuses all those great aromas/flavors across your tongue and leaves your mouth watering for more. Classically drunk by itself after dinner or on top of vanilla ice cream, but I want chocolate pecan pie, a la mode. The twist, here it is, is that what this wine made me think of when tasting it was Amaro liqueurs. This is kind of like a non-bitter Amaro. The complexity and the sweetness balanced with savory tones and the higher alcohol it is not too far of a reach. This has tons of cocktail applications. Being oxidized and fortified sealed the deal for me. This is a dessert wine that you do not have to rush to finish. A little is all that you need and it will not fall apart after you open it. Like I said, this could be the best dessert win in the store.

San Venanzio Fortunato Brut Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore
Review Date: 08-08-2018
Clean pear fruit backed with a hint of minerality. There is way more wine in this bottle of bubbles than you would expect from a Prosecco at this price point.
Price: $15.99 Add To Cart

Mas Codina Cava Brut Reserva Penedès
Review Date: 05-30-2015
This is no ordinary Cava. There is a good percentage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are used in the blend. What that means is that there is breadth and depth to this sparkler that you do not find in similarly priced Cavas. Mix that with clean fruit tones, a moderate amount of yeastiness and a classic Brut finish and you get one of K&L's best sparkling values.
Price: $13.99 Add To Cart

Ruinart Brut Rosé "2nd Skin" Champagne 750ml bottle (ships as a 1.5L due to shape of bottle)
Review Date: 10-06-2010
This is no ordinary rose. Yes, it is beautifully colored, has a great mouse, and is just too easy to drink but there is something else going on here as well. In one word, complexity. This is like drinking beautiful sparkling Burgundy. Wonderful aromatics, multidimensional fruit, a round, generous mid-palate and great length, this is more than special occasion Champagne, this is indulgent, you deserve it, treat yourself (family and friends optional) Champagne!

La Caudrina "La Selvatica" Asti
Review Date: 07-09-2009
This is the best Asti I have ever had! It is happy in a glass. Text book Muscat aromatics but softer, prettier, almost elegant. Perfumy but in a sofisticated way. Light round and soft on the palate with a delicate sweetness. I have drunk more of this just by itself, it never seems to last until the cheese or dessert course!
Price: $21.99 Add To Cart