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Staff Favorites - Greg St. Clair
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Reviews
2021 Fèlsina Chianti Colli Senesi
Review Date: 07-29-2024
Chianti is sometimes a mystery to consumers, Classico, Rufina, Chianti DOCG and then a myriad of hill zones designated by the word for hills in Italian Colli. Colli Senesi or the hills of Siena is an enormous zone stretching from San Gimignano to Montalcino to Montepulciano and bordering Chianti Classico the entire time. Felsina’s Colli Senesi is made from vineyards just across the Chianti Classico border from their estate, partly where the Fontalloro is made. Sangiovese based wine does extraordinarily well in this spectacular 2021 vintage. The nose of this wine is wild cherry, that’s not a sweetish aromatic it is a brooding, earthy aromatic coupled with stones, oyster shells and leather. On the palate the wine shows the verve, lift and drive of the 2021 vintage accented by a little bit of tannic structure that lines the borders. The flavors begin to bloom, elevate and show more of that wild cherry and intriguing porcini like flavors. The finish is steady, keeps going and shows lots of power for a wine of this price category. A real bargain at the price and will age easily for another decade. I’d decant it for an hour or so and have it with a meaty pasta, or classic American lasagna.
2019 Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 07-16-2024
We imported Sesta di Sopra’s first vintage the 1999 Brunello, it was stunning, as a first release I was just blown away. That we could end up being their First Customer, and California importer has been a real ride. This 2019 vintage reminds me so much of the 1999, the nose is full of savory elements, porcini, salted plums, oyster shell and an array of umami aromatics, but there is a spiraling purity in the nose of this wine that forces a wild cherry aromatic to the forefront, it carries the wine forward. On the palate the wine, even now at this young age, flows with an easy, supple richness that coats the inside of your mouth. That umami rich aromatic flow continues into the flavors and expands, all the while showing great lift and energy. There is a warmth, embracing mouthfeel that is lush without being fat, it shows such great balance and really easy to drink now, I drank one last Saturday. Don’t let the ease of drinking bely its’ aging potential, truly great wines are supremely balanced from the get-go, and this is one of these. Just a truly fantastic wine, the best they’ve made since the incredible 2010 vintage.
2017 Il Paradiso di Frassina "Moz Art Wine" Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 06-27-2024
The winery is in the northern portion of Montalcino and abuts one of our favorites Poggiarellino, it shows a bit of Old School feel in this wine taking one back to the era before fruit bombs to the earthier aromatics, dried flowers, dried herbs, oyster shell, lots of spice, celery seed, coriander. On the palate the wine continues the Old School theme with porcini dust, leather and some dried cherry then framed with very fine tannins. Good weight and balance while the lingering flavors drive the wine back to a strong finish. The Moz-Art reference in this wine refers to the music played in the vineyards during the ripening, perhaps you’re a fan of classical music! The wine needs a strong dish to accompany like a braised beef or pork and I would decant it for 2- 3 hours.
2021 Bruno Giacosa Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore
Review Date: 05-07-2024
It is on rare occasions that my first thought upon tasting a big name Nebbiolo is wow there is lots of fruit in this wine, yet when I tasted this 2021Bruno Giacosa Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore that was my experience. Not to say this is some unstructured, low-acid, fruit bomb, no, this is a classically structured, powerfully built Nebbiolo from one of Piedmonts most famous producers, with a very approachable first sip and still years of possible aging. Valmaggiore lies on the other side of the Tanaro River hence not in the Langhe hills where Barolo and Barbaresco are, this isn’t a declassified version of one of those famous appellations, no, this is the best grapes from this vineyard, and it will captivate you like it did me. The nose is full of complex dark fruits, bold, dramatic but if you wait and swirl, it shows lot of layers of leather, porcini dust and underbrush emerge. On the palate the richness of the fruit is the real shocker, lush without being fat just a flowing richness. The flavors now are dominantly fruit but if you try it again the second day more of those secondary, tertiary flavors show as well. The immediate lushness slowly transforms into tannin structured Nebbiolo, and you can tell the wine’s pedigree. The finish is buoyant, with depth and a complex array of flavors and differentiated palate presence, just a real wow. This wine has a couple of decades of life in it but that powerful fruit presence will yield over time and the earthier components will come forward. If you want to try a wine you can drink now and age for a long time, this is your wine buy some bottles now try one or two and lay more into your cellar, you will really love this wine.
Price:
$49.99
2018 Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 04-17-2024
You may have read my article on the 2019 Brunello vintage and how sensational it is, and believe me it is, but you’re not going to drink those now, that’s a decade away. In the meantime, you need something delicious to drink in the near term and that is the 2018 vintage. Sesta di Sopra’s 2018 is a supple, aromatic wine, while easier to drink than 2019 but it’s not lacking in complexity or richness. It still has the classic Sesta di Sopra nose of earth, sage and leather with hints of complex earth, stone, porcini dust and plumy notes. While on your palate the wine is a half a step back from luscious but is full and inviting still showing it is real Brunello. The flavors are wild cherry and salted plums that merge into a single flavor, the wine shows real lift in the finish and begs for food accompaniment. In Montalcino that’s wild boar, but if you can’t find that a good Porterhouse or heritage pork chop, but I’ve been known to drink a few Brunello with either a rich pasta or a piece of Parmigiano Reggiano and a loaf of bread!
2021 Sesta di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino
Review Date: 03-22-2024
I tasted this wine 3 times this week while I was pouring for the Staff Tastings, wows across the board from everyone and you’re next in line. The nose of this wine is deep, powerful aromatics of salted plum, wild cherry with hints of Tuscan brush. On the palate this wine shows size, and power while having a supple muscular feel, the center of the wine is long, and drives all the way through to a lifted end. The flavors begin to develop that same salted plum and wild cherry, but a more complex blend of earth and spice begins to emerge. The finish is rock solid, long, intense and growing while showing the aging potential for this wine. I would suggest and hour decanting or more, as I would for all Sangiovese based wines, just to let the core begin to unwind and show the real depths of this wine. You’ll love it and 2021 is a sensational vintage as well!
2019 Le Cinciole "Petresco" Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
Review Date: 01-27-2024
The Petresco is a powerful wine, a single, all Sangiovese vineyard wine, planted at 1500’ twenty years ago. The nose is saturated, deep, complex and you can smell its size, this is a powerful wine. The nose shows an impressive depth of aromatics, concentrated, and seems to pull you into the wine. Subtle waves of fruit emerge as the wine aerates but it is still keeping most of the nucleus for the future. On the palate the wine shows more structure with an incredibly fine tannin adding the slightest of grit to the texture. Once again, the classic 2019 vintage shows incredible length along with its classic characteristics, of balance and dimension. The fruit is in a nascent state, still evolving, but the hints it is giving us now will give rise to some awesome flavors down the line. On the palate the wine is extremely well balanced, and all of my previous wordings of size, structure and tannin really don’t reflect the elegance of this wine. It is a more muscular version of their Aluigi and has more potential but will blossom in a few more years. A majestic wine, with an incredible future, and the equal of any other 100% Sangiovese wine around, truly amazing. Less than 420 cases were made.
2022 Casa d'Ambra Ischia Biancolella
Review Date: 12-11-2023
The aromatics of this wine are dried flowers and hints of a sea spray, coupled with more savory notes and bits of ginger. On the palate it is supple, balanced with zippy acidity coupled with a subtle richness. The flavors show more pear like flavors, some stone fruit coupled with lemon zest. An excellent choice as a first time for this winery.
2019 Bibi Graetz "Testamatta" Toscana Rosso
Review Date: 06-09-2022
This is the 20th vintage of this wine and it is Bibi Graetz’s best so far. Early on it was a flashy new wood, super fruity wine, that attracted a lot of attention but didn’t really say Sangiovese to me. Bibi is really talented in securing leases on spectacular old Sangiovese vineyards and this wine is made from a blend of 35- to 80-year-old vines and that structure and character come through. What doesn’t come through is a lumber yard full of new barrique! The nose is that classic and hauntingly aromatic, full of wild Marasca cherry, middle-eastern spice, and hints of Tuscan brush. On the palate the wine’s length is immediately evident, long sinews pull the wine down your tongue and lift the wine at the back. The flavors show more spice and a deeper cherry flavor and although there are some tannins they are stretched out in a linear fashion and just supply support. This is one outstanding Sangiovese as good as any out there today.
Lini "Labrusca" Lambrusco Emilia Bianco
Review Date: 08-07-2021
Lambrusco is one of the most popular wines in Italy this time of year, but it’s a much-misunderstood category in the States. This is mostly due to the ocean of cheap, sweet versions that were popular here in the 1970s and 1980s, plus a perplexing diversity of grape varieties, styles, and colors. Lambrusco has half a dozen different appellations, half a dozen different grape varieties, and ranges from the extremely high yields in the flatlands to lesser yields in the rolling hills of Castelvetro. It takes a bit of work to figure it out, but wow—once you try a couple, you will be hooked.
Some of the more delicate versions have the Emilia appellation, where Lini is one of the top producers. These wines are lighter, crisper, and dry, while being perfect for salumi on a hot afternoon. Lower in alcohol, they are the perfect daytime wines and should be served refreshingly cold.
(Greg St. Clair, K&L Italian wine buyer)
Price:
$15.99
Lini "Labrusca" Lambrusco Emilia Rosso
Review Date: 08-07-2021
Lambrusco is one of the most popular wines in Italy this time of year, but it’s a much-misunderstood category in the States. This is mostly due to the ocean of cheap, sweet versions that were popular here in the 1970s and 1980s, plus a perplexing diversity of grape varieties, styles, and colors. Lambrusco has half a dozen different appellations, half a dozen different grape varieties, and ranges from the extremely high yields in the flatlands to lesser yields in the rolling hills of Castelvetro. It takes a bit of work to figure it out, but wow—once you try a couple, you will be hooked.
Some of the more delicate versions have the Emilia appellation, where Lini is one of the top producers. These wines are lighter, crisper, and dry, while being perfect for salumi on a hot afternoon. Lower in alcohol, they are the perfect daytime wines and should be served refreshingly cold.
(Greg St. Clair, K&L Italian wine buyer)
Price:
$15.99
Montechiara Prosecco
Review Date: 06-05-2021
With the explosion of Prosecco on the market at ever escalating prices you can't find a better Extra Dry Prosecco at this price point, clean, richly textured, fresh, crisp so easy to drink with a wonderfully balanced mousse! This is the perfect afternoon refresher, just as you finished gardening or if you love Aperol Spritz this will be your companion mixer! Friends coming over before dinner aperitif, everyone loves a little Prosecchino!
Price:
$10.99
Canard-Duchêne Brut Champagne
Review Date: 05-19-2020
Rich, complex, with great central focus, a hint of biscuity aromatic, broad and supple on the palate this wine really gives you a sense of weight and concentration while still being light on its feet! At this price an outrageous steal!
Alvear "1927" Pedro Ximenez Solera Montilla-Moriles (375ml)
Review Date: 10-01-2019
I have to admit I generally am not a fan of Pedro Ximenez the molasses like syrupy nature is just not for me, yet I was incredibly surprised by this wine, it is sensational. The nose if full of hazelnuts and honey it shows extraordinarily well balanced just from that. On the palate the wine has real weight but it’s not like a couple of 40lb. dumbbells on your tongue it’s got focus a center that is wrapped in a luscious texture, this isn’t a “lean” wine it is bold and rich. The flavors for me are what really separate this wine instead of the prune like molasses character I’ve been used to this is toasted hazelnuts, so perfectly balanced with the sweetness I can’t stop wanting to drink this wine. Give this a try, it is a really great dessert wine.
San Venanzio Fortunato Brut Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore
Review Date: 08-01-2018
I was stunned by the superlative quality in this vintage of San Venanzio: 2016 has been just an exceptional vintage across Italy and most of Europe and it didn’t skip Valdobbiadene. The fruit in the nose of this wine is so pure, clean and vibrant it outgrows the appellation, the wine has so much minerality, clean focus yet still retains that Prosecco elegance and balance. Sensational finish!
Drink from 2016 to 2016
Price:
$15.99
2013 Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 06-03-2018
The nose of this wine is classic, full of marasca cherry, leather and a sweet earth, on the palate the wines complexity level jumps up a notch while the balance and depth are the real highlight. The finish is endless and whiles not quite at the standard of their single-vineyard Madonna but still a truly outstanding wine, and if you’re intrigued by the Madonna, the Marroneto will give you a warm-up to the style and flavors at a bargain price.
Drink from 2020 to 2020
Amara Sicilian Amaro d'Arancia Rossa (750ml)
Review Date: 08-27-2017
A confession, I love Amaro, there’s a huge trend toward Amaro, vermouth and bitters but this one is really unique. The Sicilian orange peel just dominates not only in the aromatics but it is the signature flavor throughout. I frequently find Southern Italian Amaro too sweet for my taste this one is impeccably balanced. I love it over ice with a sprig of rosemary, sometime I add a splash of soda.
Drink from 2017 to 2017
Price:
$41.99
Casa Dragones Joven Sipping Tequila (750ml - ships as a 1.5L due to bottle shape)
Review Date: 06-15-2016
It’s not often I review Tequila but this one is I have to. This is a really unique product, the color makes you think that is an inexpensive, simple, un-aged spirit, but the nose immediately ends that train of thought. The nose is not one of those explosive, overpowering bolts of aroma that singe your nostrils the aromatics are really pure, intense and penetrating. It was enough for me to just smell this Tequila for a couple of minutes it was so fascinating while totally engaging and easily accessible. On the palate the depth of the aged flavors comes forward, wave after wave of cured Agave sweep across your tongue, no bite, no burn yet not fat just perfectly balanced. The finish….I can still taste it as I write this 10 minutes later, long, intense yet lifting. Superb spirit, not often you get to taste something like this.
Drink from 2016 to 2016
Michel Arnould "Réserve" Grand Cru Verzenay Brut Champagne
Review Date: 07-15-2015
I love the smooth nature of this Champagne, that subtle richness of the mousse, just a creamy texture yet backed up by an excellent acidity, crisp, light and refreshing--the best of both sides. Such a deal, buy two!
Drink from 2015 to 2015
Price:
$34.99
Bollinger "Special Cuvée" Brut Champagne
Review Date: 07-15-2015
Do I really have to encourage you to buy this? Wow... one of the few barrel fermented Champagnes left. So good, focus, texture, etc., etc. Damn, that's good.
Drink from 2015 to 2015
2010 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 07-01-2015
The nose speaks of sunshine, warmth, sweetness not floral just fruity. The flavors begin to expand on your palate and the simple plummy fruit is transformed to more of a kaleidoscope of flavors, Umeboshi (dried, salted, Japanese plums), wild cherry, iron and leather. While the nose speaks of ripeness the palate presence is freshened by the perfect acidic balance for this wine, just enough to lift without becoming edgy, a long and complex finish that has layers of flavor and textures.
Drink from 2015 to 2015
2009 Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 06-30-2015
For more than 40 years Ettore Spina was an International banker, although originally from Torino he and his wife Enrica Bandirola lived his professional career in Rome. Their idea was always to “retire” to the Tuscan countryside and after years of searching finally in 1980 they found an abandoned house on the south side of Montalcino, it took years of restoring to make it livable. Early in the 1990’s they planted a vineyard to make Brunello it was a tiny 1.73 acre vineyard and there first release was in 1999. They make a tiny amount, 340 cases; yes that’s just 340 cases of wine a very small producer. Enrico studied hard and asked lots of questions and has become an excellent producer, but mostly they bought such an extraordinary piece of land it was hard to mess up. Their vineyard is planted in a soil type called Galestro that is ex-foliating shale with a lot of limestone in it, the perfect soil for Sangiovese. They are situated on the south face of Montalcino facing Monte Amiata, an extinct volcano that dominates the local weather patterns, the vineyard sits above and benefits from a nightly cooling as cool air sweeps down off the slope toward the Orcia river valley below. The wine is aged in one 30 hecotliter barrel, yes just one barrel, it’s a big one but just one barrel. Brunello by law must stay 2 years in barrel but the traditionalists like Ettore, all age it for 3 plus years and can’t be sold until January of the 5th year after the harvest.
This 2009 is precocious, it is a supple, aromatic, pretty wine, easier to drink now than to age it a decade plus. It still has the classic Sesta di Sopra nose of earth, sage and leather with hints of complex earth, stone and plumy notes. This vintage is lively on the palate, fresh, frisky and would do well with I’m lucky, I get to try the new vintage every year with braised veal shank, Enrica is a tremendous cook, it’s the perfect match, if you’re not so inclined try it with a Grilled Porterhouse or an aged piece of Pecorino Toscano make sure it is Toscano.
Drink from 2015 to 2015
Sorelle Bronca Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry
Review Date: 05-13-2015
Valdobbiadene is the heart of Prosecco for me, perhaps not geographically but certainly stylistically. Here the wines have more soul; they vineyards are extraordinary, splattered over a maze of steeply sloping hills, not one big mass but a conglomeration of hundreds of small growers. It is here that the Bronca Sisters (Sorelle Bronca) make their Extra Dry Prosecco DOCG, theirs is an excellent expression of soil, sun and fruit, superb balance and incredibly refreshing, the hallmarks of great Prosecco.
Drink from 2015 to 2015
2011 Bibi Graetz "Testamatta" Rosso Toscana
Review Date: 04-20-2015
If you love vibrant, international styled Super Tuscans this is your wine. Bibi Graetz is really talented in securing leases on spectacular old Sangiovese vineyards. This wine is made from a blend of 35 to 80 year old vines and that structure and character come through. Outstanding length is the first thing you notice followed by wildly pure wild cherry aromatics that then bring in hints of vanilla that lead you to its palate richness. Powerful, broad and dramatic on the palate with loads of complex fruit. The 2011 vintage gives such a lush, richness to the wines they are hard to resist now but this wine will still age for years to come.
Drink from 2015 to 2015
2010 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 02-08-2015
The nose is narrow, tightly wound, oyster shell, crushed brick and leather. On the palate the wine shows long, elegant lines that highlight the wines tannic structure where parts of the brick, leather and oyster shell aromatics turn into flavors. A leaner, more restrained character with hints of the salty, savory vintage character. The finish is long and dusty, leathery in line with this wine’s classic style.
Drink from 2020 to 2020
2007 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 11-21-2012
The last 5 years have shown such and incredible jump in quality in this winery it is amazing. While always solid their wines were a bit stodgy, now their wines show more regal presence without losing their classic expression they have just really come to a higher level. Forceful and bold in the mouth, balanced, expressive with more leather, earth, spice and plumy fruit softening the finish, very good wine.
Drink from 2012 to 2012
2007 La Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 11-21-2012
This is the best Fornacina I've ever tasted, clean, powerful, focused and distinguished. They've hovered on the edge of being known for years and their wines were really just ok but in this year everything has come together and they have produced an dynamic Brunello capable of aging well into a truly special wine.
Drink from 2012 to 2012
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