Antonio Barbadillo "Obispo Gascón" Palo Cortado
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The NV Palo Cortado Obispo Gascon, produced from Palomino grapes averaging 20 years old, and shows the telltale nose of Palo Cortado with its lactic touch and an off-dry nose of apricots, blond tobacco and spices. The palate is dominated by the salty notes (common to all Barbadillo wines), sharp, medium-bodied, with great length. Drink 2013-2019. (LG)
A plump style, with glazed peach, toasted pecan and ginger notes backed by elegant green tea, ginger and incense accents. The very dry, walnut- and iodine-edged finish holds on thanks to riveting acidity. Drink now. (Web-2014)
18-20 years old. From the third criadera. Refined and intense bitter orange and nutty burnt caramel aroma even though it's bone dry (< 5 g/l). Savoury and immensely concentrated. Refined power and incredibly complex. Elegant in its complexity. (JH) 17.5/20 points.
Palo cortado is the rarest style of sherry. Basically it starts out with a thin layer of flor and is initially designated to be an amontillado. However, the flor dies off quicker than expected and therefore the wine is put into a separate solera consisting of similarly evolved wines. Expect a wine that is a bit richer than amontillado, but retains some of the salty, tangy qualities. This particular example is a richer palo cortado to be sure, with an assertive, spicy quality yet still plenty of freshness and style.