1990 Domaine Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru "Clos des Épeneaux"
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Similar to the 1990s from one of Pommard's other top producers, Armand and Aleth Girardin, this is a monster wine. It is one of the most concentrated, massive Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted. The wine was bottled with no fining or filtering after it had spent 23-months in small oak casks. The color is black/purple, and the nose offers up sweet aromas of licorice, minerals, and super-ripe black fruits intertwined with the smell of toasty vanillin new oak. In the mouth, there is awesome concentration, a thick, glycerin-imbued, full-bodied, chewy texture, and mouthsearing tannins in the explosively long finish. This should prove to be a monumental Pommard, but prospective purchasers will need to wait 10-12 years for this wine to shed some of its tannic clout. It should keep for 25-30 years. (RP)
Big and massive, packed to the brim with fruit and tannins. Shows elegance that bodes well for cellaring.
Benjamin Leroux poured the powerful 1990 Comte Armand Clos des Epeneaux from magnum. Still deeply colored, it was youthful and structured, with tons of fruit and terrific harmony. (AG)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Still deeply colored. An expressive, dense, indeed huge nose of roasted, ever-so-slightly stewed fruit that is already showing a great deal of secondary and even tertiary development while the muscular, rich, extracted and solidly complex flavors are underpinned by a tough, firm and very prominent tannic backbone. This is a dramatic bruiser of a wine but it's not clear that it's ever going to harmonize as the finish is completely dominated by the structure and given that the fruit is presently much more advanced than the evolution of the tannins, it's a tough call to say whether the fruit will be able to stand the test of time and this most recent bottle gave no cause for optimism in this regard, indeed it seemed to confirm that this is probably a lost cause. Optimists will continue to hold the '90 Epeneaux in the cellar as it will certainly be around 30 years from now though whether it will be any more balanced than it is now is the essential question. Consistent notes.