2014 Keller Westhofen Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Trocken GG Rheinhessen

SKU #1349099 96 points Vinous

 Marine-breeze alkaline and saline notes, black tea smokiness and a hints of framboise distillate penetrate the nostrils, and the mineral complexity that follows on the polished, expansive (even at 12.8% alcohol), remarkably buoyant palate does not disappoint the expectations aroused by the nose. At the same time, there is an infectious abundance of white peach, grapefruit and red raspberry juiciness on tap, invigoratingly accented by piquant but never outright bitter pits and pips along with tart, seed-crunching impingement. A finish of vibratory intensity and consummate refreshment left me exhilarated and panting after the next fascinating, sensuously satisfying sip. Keller calls this the butterfly among his Grosse Gewächse and attributes the jump in quality that it typically represents in tasting that line-up to the stony purity and rapid drainage of the site’s limestone soils. There’s something approaching magic here, that’s for sure! (DS)  (5/2016)

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Varietal:

Riesling

- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.
Country:

Germany

- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted. Click for a list of bestselling items from Germany.
Sub-Region:

Rheinhessen