2010 Remelluri Gran Reserva Rioja
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
I was really blown away by the 2010 Granja Remelluri Gran Reserva, their take on more classical Rioja; IT is aged in oak for a longer time, but not without having selected grapes from their very best plots that would benefit from the extended élevage. The varietal composition is approximately 75% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% Graciano. Like all of the wines here, it fermented in small stainless steel and oak vats with indigenous yeasts, and then matured in oak barrels for some 26 months. The nose is full of flowers, blood orange, sweet spices, violet pastille and curry. It's very aromatic and perfumed, with the herbs that you find in the Remelluri mountains, rosemary especially. It is extremely attractive, with a nose that makes you go back to it over and over again. This is still very young, but terribly balanced. The tannins are refined and there is a fine thread of acidity going through its core and lifting it up. This could very well be the best vintage of Granja so far. And having seen the improvements in the vineyards, my feeling is that the best is yet to come. Around 20,000 bottles produced. I tasted with Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza who returned to Remelluri in 2010. The wines are now showing the improvements in the vineyards, which are all now organically certified. The 2010 Granja is simply superb.
Located in the town of Labastida, in some of the highest elevation vineyard sites in all Rioja, Remelluri organically farms their vines, incorporating some biodynamic principles and treatments, and is amongst the finest estates in Rioja. They are one of the few Rioja bodegas to boast ageing pedigree (these wines age beautifully for many years, both reserva and gran reserva bottlings), as well as a clear intent to painstakingly, organically farm their prized vineyard holdings. Furthermore, owner Telmo Rodriguez has a creative spirit in the cellar, where there are always experimentations with different size barrels and foudres as applied to particular parcels and grape varieties. For now, rather similar to the 2005 when it was first released, the 2010 Gran Reserva is rich, impressively structured, and spicy, with concentrated dark fruit and cassis aromas that lead to a chewy palate of sweet dark fruits, baking spices and minerality. More Garnacha finds its way into this wine than the Reserva. This vintage was aged for 27 months in primarily French oak followed by a long ageing in bottle. It is tasty though in a rich, bold, youthful way, and will undoubtedly improve for many years to come. (Joe Manekin, K&L Spanish wine buyer)