2015 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Moulin-a-Vent
Neal Martin writes: "Readers will already be aware of my appreciation for the wines of Jean-Paul Brun at Domaine de la Terres Dorrée, located in Charnay in Southern Beaujolais. Having not found time to visit Jean-Paul last year, it was time to ring his doorbell. Unfortunately, his winery is one of those that is difficult to locate due to lack of signage. Indeed, Jean-Paul’s wife was giving me directions on my mobile phone while Jean-Paul himself was waving in my rear-view mirror. Once inside, we tasted in his small tasting room where he welcomes visitors that drop by, though this being Southern Beaujolais, I suspect they are fans of his wines rather than those making a tour of the village crus in Northern Beaujolais. He told me how he established the domaine back in 1979 with about four hectares of vine, his father selling fruit to the local co-operative, a practice that is, of course, still common in this part of the region. He has now expanded to 30 hectares. There are two points that distinguish Jean-Paul from his contemporaries. First, the white wines are an important part of his portfolio, and second, he practices a 'Bourguignon' approach to vinifying his wines, de-stemming his clusters, the use of natural yeasts, no carbonic maceration and maturation in either concrete or wooden vats. 'It was a difficult flowering,' Jean-Paul informed me, 'so there was late maturity. Crops were around 30% down compared to last year.'"