2013 Jeff Cohn Cellars "Sweetwater Springs Vineyard" Russian River Valley Petite Sirah
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Lastly, the 100% Petite Sirah 2013 Landy Sweetwater Springs Vineyard is another 200-case cuvée from a steep hillside vineyard planted in loamy clay and alluvial soils. This wine spent 16 months in 100% new French oak prior to being bottled. It is a powerhouse at 15.5% natural alcohol. Absolutely sensational Petite Sirah, right up there with some of the greatest from California, this killer effort has an inky purple color and a beautiful nose of blueberries, black raspberries, blackberries and floral notes, but it is remarkably concentrated, full-bodied and multi-dimensional. The wine has incredibly sweet tannins and seems to have absorbed the 100% new French oak without a hiccup. This beauty is a full-bodied, bigger-than-life Petite Sirah that should drink well for 20+ years. One of my favorite wine producers in California is Jeff Cohn, who seems to have the Midas touch when it comes to accessing special vineyard sites and exploiting them to produce full- flavored, pedal-to-the-metal wines. (RP)
*One Star* Big, bold and quite rich in almost every regard save for its momentarily withdrawn sense of blackberry fruit in the nose and a wine that very much fits the Jeff Cohn model when it comes to substance and size, this one surprises by being downright juicy once in the mouth. Its ample fruit holds its own against considerable back-palate astringency, but even die-hard Petite Sirah fans who are inured to tannin will want to wait for at least three or four years.