2013 Hiedler Gaisberg Riesling Kamptal
This wine is reminiscent of ripe, plump pears and yellow plums fallen onto wet, cool autumn leaves on moss and grass. Those ripe notions are totally evident on the smooth, rounded palate that has a lick of vivacious lemon acidity. The long finish majors on citrus and clove-like spice.
A reductive hint of struck flint and a suggestion of quarry dust certainly set the nose wrinkling. Lemon oil and peach kernel offer piquant aromatic counterpoint that continues on a palpably extract-rich, subtly creamy palate. The flesh of peach is certainly present, but there is not the sheer juiciness here for which one might have hoped. Thankfully, a lick of salt engenders salivation in the sustained finish. Youthful reticence is typical of Gaisberg (even though in this vintage that hasn’t proved true at several addresses), so perhaps this just needs time, although my impressions from last year were little changed this September. 91+? (DS)
Wine & Spirits
Corpulent Riesling, this is creamy and dense, a pudding of white fruit and oat flavor with a firm acid center. It’s hard to see where it might head in the future, but it makes a comfy winter white for a veal blanquette right now.