2014 Lewis Cellars "Mason's" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
*One Star* Here is a full throttle Cabernet that holds nothing back, but even if fairly intemperate when it comes to pushy ripeness, it is long on deep and well-defined blackcurrant fruit and never quite steps over the lines of being too much. It is a big, mouthfilling effort that will never be accused of timidity, and, despite being a little too tannic and hot in the late-going, it does not lose its very sure varietal bearings. Age is a must, and a half-dozen years seems the minimum wait, but it has the muscle and fruity mass to keep going for a half-dozen more.
Mason is the youngest of Dennis Lewis's three sons and this a wine befitting its outgoing 13-year-old namesake. No snails or puppy dog tails here though, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a low-yielding, west-facing hillside and it's loaded with running-through-the-forest briar fruit, spicy oak and a chocolate grin. The winemaker sums up the fun-loving personality of this year's Mason: "At 13 he's still the youngest brother, but big things come in small packages and this 2014 Mason's is full-on Napa Cabernet packed with juicy black plum and mature, chocolaty tannins. There's also plenty of Heath bar, cocoa powder and sweet oak spice to crank up the fun factor before things get too serious."