2014 DuMol Russian River Valley Chardonnay
*Two Stars* This serious, nicely composed opus impresses in all of the ways that very good Chardonnay can, and it hits the right marks from its concentration and keen focus to its exemplary balance and vitality. It teams deep, optimally ripened fruit with just the right amount of sweet, ever so slightly toasty oak, and, while always quite rich, it is wonderfully lively and dynamic from beginning to end. There is so much going on that it is fascinating right now, but this is one that will prove just how well fine Chardonnay can age, and we see it improving for at least four or five years and holding for a good many more.
Zeros in on a tight beam of green apple, citrus, pear and quince flavors, framed by tight, smoky, toasty oak. Packed with flavor without becoming overstuffed. Drink now. 4,300 cases made. (Web Only, 2016)
Winemaker Andy Smith waxed rhapsodic about this vintage's Chardonnay: "I am more excited about our lineup of 2014 Chardonnays than any previous vintage and I struggle particularly to recall a finer vintage of the RRV bottling than our new 2014 offering. No hype – the wine is that exciting... It’s a pulsating livewire of a wine filled with rich, creamy layers of fruit backed up by pinpoint vibrant acidity. The deep, deep intensity of flavor sets the wine apart. The dominant flavor is that of citrus oil, like a distillation of lemon and lime – zest and juice – just beautiful."