2015 Bernhard Ott "Am Berg" Grüner Veltliner Wagram (Biodynamic)
Honeydew, fennel and lily-of-the-valley on the nose are joined by crunchy evocations of cucumber and cress on a bright yet subtly creamy palate that features positively invigorating phenolic cut as well as alluring inner-mouth perfume. Ore-like, stony intrigue lies beneath the surface of a buoyant, consummately refreshing finish. And this harmonious ripeness was ready for picking in mid-September, for a finished alcohol level of only 11.8 percent. Ott continues to purchase some fruit for this bottling from parcels whose organic farming and eventual harvest he oversees, though his goal for the near future is to rely only on vines he owns or rents. (DS)
Friendly, crisp, fresh Conference pear flavors pervade nose and palate for a hit of crisp, green, refreshing fruitiness. The palate is smooth and balanced, light but fluid, mellow but fresh. The pear fruit lingers beautifully, rather languid for such a fresh wine. (AK)
Apple peel, white fruit, spice, glassy texture with a lovely pith on the finish. Substantial and chewy. (RH)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Ott's 2015 Grüner Veltliner Am Berg tries to balance a crisp freshness and a vinous character. The wine – a collection of younger vines and purchased grapes –opens with an intense but discreet bouquet of white pip and stone fruits along with lemon flavors. Intense, round and aromatic on the palate, this is a pure yet densely textured Veltliner with a lovely spiciness and salinity in the finish. Excellent quality for a so called entry-level wine. Crisp in the finish. (SR)
Bernhard is now fully biodynamic, and it really shows in the vineyards. He has life bursting among his vines, the soil is not compacted, and he sows multiple flowers and grasses in his rows to compete for water, aerate the soil, and return nitrogen back when he tills it under. In Austria he is a superstar, called "Mr. Veltliner" by his colleagues. These are grapes from various sites on the "Berg" (the terraced vines above Feuresbrunn) with loess-based soils. This exquisite Gruner is fresh, crisp, and well-defined, with classic Gruner aromas and flavors of green apple, stone fruits, and white pepper, with a snappy, mineral-driven finish. It is a sophisticated wine that is ready to drink and will pair beautifully with a variety of foods.