2014 von Winning Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewächs Pfalz (last of vintage) (Previously $67)

SKU #1266521 93-94 points Vinous

 Surprisingly floral for a Kalkofen Riesling, this leads with head-turning freesia and lavender perfume, behind which are intimations of white peach and passion fruit that then saturate a polished, almost plush palate. Sweet suggestions of almond paste enhance the mid-palate sense of richness, but brightly juicy white peach and grapefruit serve for consummate refreshment and floral-herbal impingements for invigoration in a seductively sustained finish. The chalk that is part of this site’s namesake may be implicated in its energetic finish, but there is no overt impression of chalkiness let alone austerity to be found here; on the contrary, this is the richest and most winsome of the youthful Von Winning single-vineyard 2014s. (DS)  (5/2016)

92 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 The 2014 Deidesheim Kalkofen Riesling trocken GG comes from a plateau above the Grainhübel where the grapes ripen a few days later. The soil is chalky and marly, and delivers a rather discreet but very potent wine that needs more time to develop its talents. The 2014 shows a chalky, powdered nose with fresh lemon flavors and rather white fruit aromas. Full-bodied, very round and elegant on the palate, this is a well balanced Riesling with a Burgundian touch thanks to the stimulating, finesse-full salinity and the okay kiss that also gives this Riesling a very delicate tannin structure. I recommend to store this well structured and juicy wine for another three years. 92+ (SR)  (12/2015)

Jancis Robinson

 Good news for those who may begin to find the repetitive linking of barrique and von Winning a bit tedious, as in the case of the Kalkofen there is no call for it. A fresh breeze of green and even some more exotic fruit caresses the nose. The flavour delivers a cool expression of zesty lime and juicy melon, all backed up by a compact substance. With all that freshness and coolness there’s got to be some minerality in there! 18/20 points (MS)  (9/2015)

K&L Notes

The Pfalz is a region of experimentation and excitement, and von Winning has certainly drummed up a lot of enthusiasm for their unconventional techniques. From using Burgundian viticultural practices to fermenting whites in French barrels, winemaker Stephan Attman’s philosophy is a bit unconventional for Germany. But his minimalist approach and respect for the vines and cellar show in his wines.

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By: Olivia Ragni | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 8/15/2016 | Send Email
A beautiful Grosses Gewächs (the German “Grand Cru” designation for dry wine) Riesling. The grapes are sourced from the limestone and marl-ridden soils of the Kalkofen vineyard, which provide for a decidedly terroir-driven wine. With initial aromas of matchstick, beeswax, and white tea, this complex Riesling just continues to unravel with air. Its structure and acidity suggest this wine will age with grace while showing exquisitely in its youth with notes of Meyer lemon, nectarine, chalk and exotic spices.

Additional Information:

Varietal:

Riesling

- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.
Country:

Germany

- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted. Click for a list of bestselling items from Germany.
Sub-Region:

Pfalz