2014 von Winning Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewächs Pfalz
Surprisingly floral for a Kalkofen Riesling, this leads with head-turning freesia and lavender perfume, behind which are intimations of white peach and passion fruit that then saturate a polished, almost plush palate. Sweet suggestions of almond paste enhance the mid-palate sense of richness, but brightly juicy white peach and grapefruit serve for consummate refreshment and floral-herbal impingements for invigoration in a seductively sustained finish. The chalk that is part of this site’s namesake may be implicated in its energetic finish, but there is no overt impression of chalkiness let alone austerity to be found here; on the contrary, this is the richest and most winsome of the youthful Von Winning single-vineyard 2014s. (DS)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Deidesheim Kalkofen Riesling trocken GG comes from a plateau above the Grainhübel where the grapes ripen a few days later. The soil is chalky and marly, and delivers a rather discreet but very potent wine that needs more time to develop its talents. The 2014 shows a chalky, powdered nose with fresh lemon flavors and rather white fruit aromas. Full-bodied, very round and elegant on the palate, this is a well balanced Riesling with a Burgundian touch thanks to the stimulating, finesse-full salinity and the okay kiss that also gives this Riesling a very delicate tannin structure. I recommend to store this well structured and juicy wine for another three years. 92+ (SR)
Good news for those who may begin to find the repetitive linking of barrique and von Winning a bit tedious, as in the case of the Kalkofen there is no call for it. A fresh breeze of green and even some more exotic fruit caresses the nose. The flavour delivers a cool expression of zesty lime and juicy melon, all backed up by a compact substance. With all that freshness and coolness there’s got to be some minerality in there! 18/20 points (MS)
The Pfalz is a region of experimentation and excitement, and von Winning has certainly drummed up a lot of enthusiasm for their unconventional techniques. From using Burgundian viticultural practices to fermenting whites in French barrels, winemaker Stephan Attman’s philosophy is a bit unconventional for Germany. But his minimalist approach and respect for the vines and cellar show in his wines.