2014 Leitz Rüdesheimer Roseneck (Katerloch) Riesling (Dry) Rheingau
White peach, mirabelle and lemon are pungently mingled with lavender, lemon peel, iris and ocean spray in a head-turning aromatic array that surges from the glass. Silken in feel and ultra-bright, the animating palate impression introduces a mouthwatering impression of oyster liquor while preserving wafting inner-mouth perfume. A buoyant, penetrating, consummately refreshing finish is at once concentrated yet subtle in its complexity. That this wine was refused Grosses Gewächs status for being “too light” speaks volumes about – though hardly speaks well of – the entire Grosses Gewächs project to date and the way in which that imprimatur gets assigned. At 12.5% alcohol, this can hardly be called alcoholically light wine. Was it perhaps the wine’s lift, filigree detail, animation or shameless pandering to human thirst and sensual longing that disturbed the judges?
German Winemaker of the Year (2011) Johannes Leitz continues the tradition of winemaking started by his grandfather, Josef. In his time at the helm, he has expanded the vineyard holdings to over 40 hectares of 100% Riesling vines.