2006 Deutz "Amour de Deutz" Brut
The 2006 Amour de Deutz is fabulous, and also shows what the house can do in a strong vintage. A rich, powerful Blanc de Blancs, the 2006 boasts notable texture and breadth. Even with all of its intensity, the 2006 preserves considerable freshness. Brioche, spice and yellow stone fruit nuances meld into the resonant, creamy finish. Readers will have to give the 2006 at least a year or two in bottle, possibly more, as it is tightly wound and energetic to the core. Still, there is a lot to like in the wine's crisp, citrus-inflected notes and vibrant personality. The blend is 53% Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, 39% Avize and 8% Villers-Marmery. (AG)
A rich, vivacious Champagne, with toasted brioche and smoked walnut accents, this offers flavors of black cherry pâte de fruit, pickled ginger and poached apricot on a lively bead. Shows fine minerally cut to the lingering finish. (AN)
*Two Stars* Deutz' version of Blanc de Blancs stakes out the drier, minerally end of the range and is perhaps a bit stark for the genre, but it rates highly with us because it specializes in finesse and makes a good showing of it. With a tight yet creamy mousse and a touch of rounding to its flavors that keeps things in balance, this wine might be happier in the company of grilled scallops than with a platter of fresh bivalves, but it never gives up its crisp styling and is lively and vigorous to the end.
This has some impressive complexity and layering to it, smelling of bright light cherry fruits and grapefruit citrus with fresh pastry and hints of grilled cashews too. The palate has a nicely cut shape, crisp and even. The acidity is fine and runs deep, and flavors follow the same berry citrus mix seen in the nose. Drink now.