2006 Philipponnat "Clos de Goisses" Brut Champagne
The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time. The question is: How much? (AG)
A statuesque Champagne, with a firm, well-sculpted frame swathed in a fine and creamy mousse, featuring notes of yellow plum, pastry, candied ginger and spring blossom. Delivers a long, chalky finish. Disgorged October 2015. Drink now through 2030. (AN, Web-2016)
Firm straw colour. Really distinctive nose – rather minerally and intense. Soars out of the glass. The bead is just a little coarse and the wine positively screams for attention. Although the dosage is so low, the wine actually tastes quite rich, although it finishes very firmly and dry. A really personality-laden wine. A whole percentage point more potent than most. Kerpow! 18/20 points (JR)
This particular parcel, in Mareuil-sur-Ay, only has a wall at the very bottom and is, in actuality, a precariously steep hill located on a giant lump of chalk—the name comes from “angoisse,” which means “terror” or “anxiety.” It is also two degrees centigrade warmer than neighboring vineyards, due to the south-facing, 40-degree grade.