2014 Terroir al Limit "Torroja" Priorat
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The village red 2014 Torroja Vi de Vila wants to show the marriage between Garnacha and Cariñena blended in a 50/50 proportion and grown on diverse plots of the village where the character is warm, but it's not Porrera, with good structure from the soils that are slate-based. Cariñena works better in Torroja than Garnacha, and it's not easy to grow a good Garnacha there, so he looks for fresher places, lower and flatter if you like. It fermented with full clusters for ten days and matured in oak foudres for 16 months. However, there is no oak whatsoever in the nose here (a constant across all wines, really) as this is floral and fresh, very fruit-driven, open and expressive. The texture is velvety, with some very fine, slightly grainy tannins. This is the most important wine for Dominik because of the challenge to produce a fresh and elegant wine from a coster, where you have drainage and heat, more than in lower, flatter vineyards, where you have the natural conditions to produce fine and elegant wines, which is more the style he wants. He thinks this Torroja expresses the house style like no other, while at the same time keeps the Mediterranean character. 92+ (LG)
Based in the village of Torroja, Terroir al Limit represents the vanguard in a newly energized Priorat. Proprietor Dominik Huber produces bright, expressive, mineral-drenched wines that are powerful and representative of Priorat, yet somehow altogether something different due to their acidity and relatively lighter, more tense style. These are wines made from grapes picked on the earlier side, that are fermented with whole clusters and then allowed to age in concrete and/or foudres - unlike many others in the region Terroir al Limit prefers these vessels to stainless steel and 225 liter barrels. These wines are exciting and a revelation for what is possible in one of Spain's most beautiful and difficult regions to cultivate grapes in Priorat.