2013 Terroir al Limit "Pedra de Guix" Priorat
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2013 Pedra de Guix is a blend of the same amount of Garnacha Blanca on slate from Poboleda, Pedro Ximenez on clay from Lloar and very old Macabeo on stony soils from Torroja. It's low in alcohol and high-ish in acidity. The must was fermented in 500-liter oak barrels separately with indigenous yeasts after a direct pressing of the bunches, and was kept in those same 500-liter oak barrels for one year, then was blended and put in foudre for a further year. The result is obviously a slight (intentional) oxidative style. There is a note of honeycomb and pollen, some quince, yellow flowers and developing higher-pitched aromas with time in the glass, as if the oxidative character blows off and the wine feels fresher in contact with air. I think this has potential for a long life in bottle. It somehow made me think of a white Hermitage. 4,636 bottles were filled in August 2015.
Based in the village of Torroja, Terroir al Limit represents the vanguard in a newly energized Priorat. Proprietor Dominik Huber produces bright, expressive, mineral-drenched wines that are powerful and representative of Priorat, yet somehow altogether something different due to their acidity and relatively lighter, more tense style. These are wines made from grapes picked on the earlier side, that are fermented with whole clusters and then allowed to age in concrete and/or foudres - unlike many others in the region Terroir al Limit prefers these vessels to stainless steel and 225 liter barrels. These wines are exciting and a revelation for what is possible in one of Spain's most beautiful and difficult regions to cultivate grapes in Priorat.