2013 Terroir al Limit "Les Tosses" Priorat
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The top Cariñena is the 2013 Les Tosses, which for Dominik Huber is the pure expression of graphite and cherries, from an ancient plot on black slate soils fermented with full clusters and a short maceration and matured in oak foudres for two years. There was a volatile whiff and that sensation of warm slate that really transported me to the character of the roads in Priorat. There's also something that made me think of iron and raw meat. It's all relative of course, because compared to most other Priorats, this would feel extremely elegant and floral. The palate has even more of that tactile sensation of the graphite, with abundant, albeit extremely fine tannins and showing great balance. Some 1,000 bottles were filled in August 2015.
Based in the village of Torroja, Terroir al Limit represents the vanguard in a newly energized Priorat. Proprietor Dominik Huber produces bright, expressive, mineral-drenched wines that are powerful and representative of Priorat, yet somehow altogether something different due to their acidity and relatively lighter, more tense style. These are wines made from grapes picked on the earlier side, that are fermented with whole clusters and then allowed to age in concrete and/or foudres - unlike many others in the region Terroir al Limit prefers these vessels to stainless steel and 225 liter barrels. These wines are exciting and a revelation for what is possible in one of Spain's most beautiful and difficult regions to cultivate grapes in Priorat.