2013 Terroir al Limit "Les Manyes" Priorat
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
I had already encountered the 2013 from both Tosses and Manyes, the top Cariñena and Garnacha respectively, and was really looking forward to tasting it with time, side by side and even next to the 2014s. This 2013 Les Manyes is stunning, perfumed and floral, with subtle aromas of Mediterranean herbs and flowers. The vineyard is located at 800 meters altitude on clay and limestone soils, a true rarity in Priorat, in the zone where Scala Dei has their Mas Deu vineyard, and it might be the secret why it produces such and elegant and fresh wine. Perfumed and intoxicating, this has a beautiful nose. The vinification is similar for all reds, a short, 10-day maceration with the full clusters followed by an élevage in large, neutral oak foudres, in this case for almost two years. It developed a nose of violets with time in the glass that complemented the fine tannins and the subtle minerality. The balance is gobsmacking. 1,000 bottles were filled in November 2015. This is a wine that from 2013 will also be fermented and aged in cement.
Based in the village of Torroja, Terroir al Limit represents the vanguard in a newly energized Priorat. Proprietor Dominik Huber produces bright, expressive, mineral-drenched wines that are powerful and representative of Priorat, yet somehow altogether something different due to their acidity and relatively lighter, more tense style. These are wines made from grapes picked on the earlier side, that are fermented with whole clusters and then allowed to age in concrete and/or foudres - unlike many others in the region Terroir al Limit prefers these vessels to stainless steel and 225 liter barrels. These wines are exciting and a revelation for what is possible in one of Spain's most beautiful and difficult regions to cultivate grapes in Priorat.