2015 Tatomer "Meeresboden" Santa Barbara County Grüner Veltliner
The 2015 Grüner Veltliner Meeresboden is a bit brighter and more tense in style than the Paragon. Citrus, mineral and floral notes abound in a distinctly savory Grüner that needs time to unwind from its recent bottling. My sense is that the Meeresboden is holding back quite a bit of its potential, as there is good underlying intensity waiting to emerge. Because of shatter and low yields in John Sebastiano, in 2015 most of the fruit is from Kick On Ranch. The 2015 has turned out beautifully. There are plenty of highlights in this range from Graham Tatomer. The whites, the wines Tatomer started out with, are the most exciting wines this year. As a group, the 2014 Pinots are a bit on the light side, as is common in this vintage. Tatomer fans can look forward to two new Rieslings in the 2016 vintage, although Tatomer is no longer working with Sisquoc fruit following the 2014 harvest. (AG)
Producer notes: "The name translates to 'Ocean Soil', in this case, sand. This wine is blended from several small plantings along hillsides in Santa Barbara County. The common thread besides all being cool climate sites is that they share a similar soil structure of sand, diatomaceous earth, and loam. Meeresboden is balanced with stone fruit, and yellow citrus flavors, as well as a salty, kelp-like minerality. Young, this wine is bright and racy, with age it becomes silky and more honeyed."