By: Bryan Brick | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 3/17/2016 | Send Email
A lot of changes have taken place at Larkmead over the last few years, but none of those moving parts have affected the quality of the wines. In fact, these wines are as good as I can ever remember them being. The new winemaker, Dan Petroski, who has his own brand Massican, and has worked for the likes of Valle dell'Acate in Italy and DuMol here in the States is one of the great up and coming winemakers in Napa. He has taken a more detail oriented approach with fermenting and keeping separate all the parcels of the vineyard until blending. This approach has made the wines a bit different than in the past, in my opinion, channeling specific lots into each of the proprietary bottlings.
The Cabernet in 2013 is awesome, plain and simple, but it is much more spice and earth-driven than in years past. With considerable loamy earth qualities backed by laurel, dusty black currants, menthol/camphor and touches of Tiramisu, this is heady and intriguing aromatically. With more old school tannin/acid interplay and a rustic texture, this has really become serious wine that I think is going to age effortlessly. Flavors of cedar, cigar smoke, baking chocolate, eucalyptus, tar and boysenberry are already very well integrated and continue to come together and evolve in the glass. Savory edged throughout, this is a rare Napa Cab that impresses with structure and complexity rather than with sexy, bombastic fruit. I couldn’t be happier with it.