2013 Högl "Wachauer Weingarten" Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Wachau (Previously $25)

SKU #1247102 Vinous

 From riverside sites around Loiben, this bottling offers a tangy meld of rhubarb, green tomato and gooseberry topped by a reductive hint of bacon. It certainly makes for refreshment and invigoration, although the closest thing I detect to richness is a suggestion of kohlrabi. (DS)  (11/2015)

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By: Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 4/25/2016 | Send Email
A phenomenal example of the broad and textural side of Grüner. The nose is fresh and clear, while alluding to a surprising richness and breadth. Stony, unripe peaches and lemonlime citrus notes are complemented by autolytic scents of fresh toast, delicate yeastiness, and even yogurt, which is all present on the palate, as well. These broader flavors are kept in check by the characteristic mouthwatering acid of Grüner. Completely dry, this wine is refreshing and focused, but big enough to stand up to some of the creamier, heartier dishes that you might typically reserve for a Chardonnay pairing. Try it with a Petrale sole or even something creamy like chicken Alfredo—you’ll be surprised!

Additional Information:

Varietal:

Gruner Veltliner

- Grüner Veltliner is the most widely planted grape variety in Austria, making up about a third of all the vineyard land in the country, according to importer extraordinaire Terry Thiese. The varietal has definitely increased in popularity of the past few years, as sommeliers and wine directors loaded their lists with this spicy white because it pairs well with so many things. Its bouquet has been described as floral, tending to toward musky, with hints of peppery greens, lentils, citrus and red fruit with a distinctive mineral quality. In the mouth the wine can be broad or precise, but is almost always distinguished by bracing acidity and flavors that mirror the nose. A notoriously good ager, you can drink GrüVes in their youth, or let them evolve in complexity in your cellar.
Country:

Austria

- Austria is a well-respected wine-growing region in Europe. Yet, even though they make about a third the volume of wine as Germany, not many of these fine bottles make it to the shelves of American wine merchants or restaurants. Lucky for us, their anonymity has translated into incredible value from simple, everyday whites to exquisite dessert wines. Austria shares many grape varieties with Germany—Riesling is king here, too. But the style of Austrian whites is much dryer and more potent. Grüner Veltliner is Austria's second-most-important varietal and makes whites of great versatility and pleasure. Click for a list of bestselling items from Austria.