2014 Martinelli "Bondi Home Ranch - Water Trough Vineyard" Green Valley Pinot Noir
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The cool-climate 2014 Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch, from the Green Valley in the Russian River, is absolutely spectacular. It saw 80% new oak because it was so concentrated, and it seems to have sucked it up and only reveals just a slight wood spice to its full-bodied, beautifully textured, black raspberry and blackberry fruit. This is one of the profound 2014s and should drink well for 15-20 years. One of the great families of Northern California, and of course, one of the highest quality producers, the Martinellis - and rather remarkably so - only estate-bottle 15% of their production from over 300 acres of beautifully situated vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. No doubt Helen Turley, who worked at Martinelli and mentored its winemaking team, left a profound influence on the quality of the Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Syrahs and Zinfandels, a fact that can’t be overstated. The Chardonnays all go through full malolactic fermentation and tend to see about 50% new oak. The Pinot Noirs are always 100% destemmed and largely spend no longer than ten months in about 60% new French oak. More specifics are included with the following tasting notes. As good as 2013 is for Pinot Noir in Sonoma, 2014 actually eclipses it. This isn’t the case with Bordeaux varietals, but certainly with Pinot Noir, and at times, Chardonnay as well....
The 2014 Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch is a powerful, intense wine. Game, smoke, tobacco, licorice and red stone fruits meld together in a deep, virile Pinot that could use another year or two in bottle. Today, the Bondi Home Ranch is a bit rough around the edges, but it certainly is not lacking in personality. Then again, when has that ever been an issue here? I always look forward to my tastings at Martinelli. The entire family gathers around a long rectangular table to show their latest releases. This year, the 2014 Pinots are the most impressive wines in the range. I always look forward to my tastings at Martinelli. The entire family gathers around a long rectangular table to show their latest releases. This year, the 2014 Pinots are the most impressive wines in the range. Martinelli fans will not want to miss the new Wild Thyme Pinot. The 2013 Chards are a bit subdued, both by Martinelli standards and within the context of the vintage. Perhaps I caught those wines at an awkward stage. The Syrahs are attractive, although in 2013 the flavor profile leans more towards the red end of the spectrum, which is unusual here. The Martinellis are probably best known for their Zinfandel. The new collection of current releases delivers the goods. As always, the Martinellis like to harvest ripe, which to them means that fruit has to begin to show some dimpling. The wines are rich, powerful, and, at their best, deeply satisfying. (AG)
Ripe and fleshy, offering a tender mix of plum, cherry, rose petal, black licorice and subtle earth shadings, with caressing tannins and a silky aftertaste. Drink now through 2022. 845 cases made.