2012 Bernard Baudry "Les Clos Guillot" Chinon
Bright violet. Complex aromas of black cherry, plum, spicecake and musky underbrush. Dense, sweet and tactile, this cabernet franc shows a sappy core of dark berry fruit with impressive energy. Made with a higher percentage of new oak, this is a more modern style of Chinon that finishes with a serious tannic backbone and chewy licorice and bitter chocolate notes. With his wire-rim glasses, moustache and quirky smile, Bernard Baudry looks as if he might teach biology at the local high school. Although a relative newcomer to the region, he instead quickly established himself as one of Chinon’s outstanding producers. From the first two hectares that he purchased in 1975, his estate has now grown to 25. Since 2000, he has been assisted by his son Matthieu. Based in Cravant-les-Coteaux in the heart of one of Chinon’s privileged viticultural hamlets, they are fortunate to have not only five excellent sites but also an incredible cellar chiseled out of the tuffeau behind the winery. While they are sometimes labeled traditionalists, I find them to be more naturalists. Everything here is organic, harvested by hand and bottled without fining or filtration. In any case, theirs is a style that I admire: they make cabernet franc taste as suave and succulent as pinot noir. (JBP)
Bernard Baudry is one of the "newer" stars of Chinon. The Les Clos Guillot comes from relatively young vines, planted back in 1997, in densse clay and limestone soils. This soil composition creates a wine of remarkable depth and bing cherry character. Fresh and juicy, this is a Chinon to enjoy over the next 5-7 years.