2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St. Aubin 1er Cru "Chatenière"
Allen Meadows - Burghound
***Top Value*** Once again relatively strong reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background. There is however plenty of verve, concentration and intensity to the overtly citrus-inflected middle weight flavors along with ample minerality that also serves to add a sense of lift to the firm, complex, balanced and impressively persistent finale. This lovely effort will require a few years of cellar time as it's presently notably tight.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière has a more reserved and laconic bouquet compared to Pierre-Yves's other 2014 Saint Aubins, more backward and requiring more cellar time. The palate is fresh and crisp, quite precise with nectarine and lemon peel notes, peach following later with a light brush of honey. This is a punter-friendly Saint Aubin and I don't intend that in a bad way - just a wine that is delicious to its core. I visited Pierre-Yves Colin after Nicolas Rossignol. Whilst the latter is about to make lock, stock and François Frère into a new facility, Pierre-Yves has just done it. In August 2015 to be exact, moving his 2014s barrel by barrel, leaving them for one month before racking. His brand new winery sits opposite the small but growing cluster of growers on the industrial estate outside Chassagne, joining Philippe Colin, Michel Niellon and Jean-Marc Pillot. What attracts them? Simple...space. Pierre-Yves told me how in the village of Chassagne he would have to transfer the wines between different cellars and was doing the press almost in his garden to the chagrin of his neighbors when he started at six in the morning. (NM)
(these vines are located just below Champlots): Bright, pale yellow. Precise and pungent on the nose, offering scents of lemon curd, smoke and mint along with a sexy note of reduction. Sweet, fine-grained and gentle yet also bright and juicy, despite being made from vines in a warm spot that's protected from wind. Nicely deep and long. Colin-Morey told me he ages about 90% of his Saint-Aubin wines in 350-liter barrels, between 33% and 40% of them new. (ST)