2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru "Vaudesirs" (Pre-Arrival)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Here the wood is so subtle as to be all but invisible as it easily allows the riper and denser mix of both white and yellow orchard fruit, petrol, spice and sea breeze scents to shine. The ripeness exhibited by the nose continues onto the juicy, even succulent yet beautifully focused flavors that deliver superb complexity on the impressively lingering finale. This should age effortlessly and I would expect the minerality to develop even more with age. A 'wow' wine.
Pale, bright yellow. Rather early-picked aromas of lime zest, white pepper, crushed herbs and metallic minerality. Less complex than the last couple of 2014s but with excellent thrust to its slightly reduced flavors of lemon, spices and salty minerality. A touch vegetal but with lovely finesse of texture. Finishes quite long, but with a slight peppery edge. This rather taut, austere wine will merit a higher rating if it expands with bottle age. .-Stephen tanzer writing for Vinous.com
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir was just missing the "edge" when I tasted it from vat last year. Now in bottle, it has quite a pungent, herbaceous bouquet with touches of smoke and dried herbs. The palate is balanced with a very austere opening and to be honest, just as I found last year, it seems to lack that nervosité and nascent energy that some of the other Grand Crus from William Fevre convey. It is pleasurable, but it does not quite match to the Chablis Bougros and others. Is this the weak link in the chain this year? No trip to Chablis would be complete without a visit to William Fevre, a producer who combines quantity and quality, in no small part thanks to the talent of head winemaker Didier Séguier. Just like last year we convened in their cellar door adjacent to the Bistro de Grand Cru restaurant. We began by discussing the 2013 vintage that I tasted from vat last year. He told me that in 2013 they began the harvest on September 25 and finished just before the storm on October 3 or 4. As I predicted, these are some of the best 2013s, That picking date was crucial as they avoided the rains that hampered others, especially those with sizable holdings that simply could not expedite the picking for logistical reasons. Their Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots 2013 stands as one of the peaks of an admittedly inconsistent vintage, while the Chablis les Clos is not far behind