2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros "Côte de Bougerots" (Pre-Arrival)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Once again, based on the nose alone, this could be nothing else but Chablis with its mélange of tidal pool, mineral reduction, citrus blossom and discreet spice nuances. There is fantastic detail to the focused, mineral-driven and powerful middle weight plus flavors that do a slow build from the mid-palate all the way back to the explosively long, balanced and bone dry finish. This appears to be drawn directly from liquid Kimmeridgian and should also amply reward longer-term cellaring. In a word, brilliant.
Very pale yellow. Very ripe but vibrant nose combines lime, spices, white pepper, crushed rock and liquid minerals. Delivers a saline, sappy combination of rich peachy fruit and floral/mineral lift, with a remarkably weightless quality. The chewy, saline, bone-dry finish reinforced by minerality conveys a powerful impression of dry extract and Kimmeridgian soil. Really inexorable on the back end.
Broad, powerful flavors of lemon, lanolin and quinine ride the bracing structure to a long, stony conclusion. Shows balance and length, building from start to finish. Drink now through 2023.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote de Bouguerots has an almost clinical bouquet: extremely well defined and poised, quite subtle in style with fresh green apple, Conference pear and sea spray/oyster shells aromas. But everything is tightly wound at the moment. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, harmonious and poised with just the right amount of salinity, long and tender on the finish. This was impressive in vat and equally so in bottle. My rendezvous with Didier Seguier, head winemaker at William Fevre, was at their tasting room in Chablis ville, opposite the Bistro de Grand Cru. As usual, we tasted through their comprehensive portfolio, first with the 2015s, of which all but the entry-level wines are still in tank on their lees and due for bottling next year. Then we broached the 2014s in bottle.