2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos" (Pre-Arrival)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
A broad-ranging array features notes of spice, green apple, grapefruit, lemon rind and copious Chablis elements. Remarkably for a wine that is relatively quite refined, the medium-bodied and concentrated flavors are even more powerful than those of the Bougros, all wrapped in a superbly complex, saline and balanced finish where the citrus character telegraphed by the nose reappears on the explosive finale. There is a bit of wood in evidence but I doubt that it will take very long before it is fully integrated. In sum, this is one to strongly consider.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is 70% vinified in oak barrels for six months before maturation in stainless steel only. It has a very precise but powerful bouquet with lemon rind and flint scents, though it takes time to really open up. The palate is fresh and crisp with lime and apricot on the entry. The acidity is sharp and penetrating, gently building toward an intense, bitter-lemon finish that is elegant and refined. This is very impressive. No trip to Chablis would be complete without a visit to William Fevre, a producer who combines quantity and quality, in no small part thanks to the talent of head winemaker Didier Séguier. Just like last year we convened in their cellar door adjacent to the Bistro de Grand Cru restaurant. We began by discussing the 2013 vintage that I tasted from vat last year. He told me that in 2013 they began the harvest on September 25 and finished just before the storm on October 3 or 4. As I predicted, these are some of the best 2013s, That picking date was crucial as they avoided the rains that hampered others, especially those with sizable holdings that simply could not expedite the picking for logistical reasons. Their Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots 2013 stands as one of the peaks of an admittedly inconsistent vintage, while the Chablis les Clos is not far behind.
Very pale green-tinged yellow. Aromas of lemon gelato, soft citrus fruits and spices are lifted by a subtle floral topnote. Suave and thick but weightless. Less expressive by far than the Bougros but more penetrating thanks to solid mineral-driven acidity. Superb tension in the mouth. Very subtle and dry, with the saline, grapefruity finish going on and on. Didier Seguier will bottle the 2014 grand crus in December and January. Stephen Tanzer writing for Vinous
Sweet spice hints accent the green apple, greengage plum and mineral flavors in this lean, laserlike white. Lanolin and spice accents linger on the fresh, persistent aftertaste. Drink now through 2023.