2006 Veuve Clicquot "La Grande Dame" Brut Champagne
Veuve Clicquot’s prestige cuvée is named after the widow Clicquot, the great lady who built up the house in the early 19th century. This latest incarnation is just showing signs of ripe toasty maturity. It is rich and soft with a high dosage, in the house style, with a full panoply of lime, red apple and apricot. Drink now and until 2022.
Bright and graceful, this seamlessly knits a subtle streak of smoke-tinged minerality with flavors of almond financier, poached pear, candied kumquat and crème de cassis, focused by vibrant acidity and a refined, creamy mousse. Disgorged January 2014. Drink now through 2030.
Pale straw. A little smoky and reductive on the nose but when a top-up is poured into the glass it brings out a lovely creamy delicacy, opening to minerally citrus. Very slightly toasty on the palate, with terrific fruit depth and concentration, cool deep citrus flavours, rich and mealy like a good burgundy but then with the Pinot structure and fruit increasing the weight. Full bodied, powerful, and terrific length thanks especially to the freshness, gently honeyed on the finish and elegant overall, irrespective of the power. This vintage includes the lowest proportion of Pinot Noir ever because they wanted to keep the elegance. (17.5/20 points)