2012 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Domaine de la Vougeraie put in a stellar showing under tough peer group. It has an intriguing animally nose with just a touch of menthol infusing the black cherry and raspberry fruit that lend it a medicinal personality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, elegant in the mouth, sensual and almost opulence, yet there is an abiding sense of control and finesse here that takes this to a higher level. There is some very assiduous skillful winemaking here. This is a Bonnes-Mares that totally rocks - up there with the Roumier and de Vogüé's of this world. Chapeau winemaker Pierre Vincent. (NM) (10/2015)

The 2012 Bonnes-Mares emerges from a parcel on the Morey side that is rich in clay, which gives the wine much of its breath and pure, unbridled power. Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2012 Bonnes-Mares is a gripping Burgundy that takes hold of all the senses. Layers of flavor seem to fill out in all directions. Cool veins of minerality give the blue and black toned fruit a sense of cool, invigorating energy that is hugely appealing. The 2012 was vinified with 80% whole clusters and is aging in 80% new oak. It is above all else a wine built on serious balance. (AG) (1/2014)

Full medium-deep red. Sexy, soil-inflected aromas of briary raspberry, brown spices, woodsmoke, white pepper and truffley underbrush. Sappy and sharply delineated, showing rather powerful wild red berry fruit along with complicating notes of minerals, roasted herbs and brown spices. A superb, nuanced expression of this great grand cru, offering a complex blend of light and darker soils (70% of the estate's vines are in Chambolle-Musigny). Powerful acidity gives this wine a whiplash of a finish. 94+ points. (ST) (3/2015)

( from vines by the Morey border, 50% of which were planted in 1902; 80% whole clusters) A gentle application of wood frames the markedly ripe nose of various red berries, spice and floral scents where, like the Corton, there is a note of prune. There is impressive density and overt power to the borderline massive flavors that coat the palate with seemingly buckets of extract, all wrapped in a chewy and mineral-driven finish that delivers excellent length on the overtly structured finale. My score awards the benefit of the doubt that this will freshen with a few years of bottle age. Drink: 2024+ (1/2015)