2014 Château Vitallis Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes
Quince and mandarin aromas with layers of warm butter and caramel. Great roundness on the palate with hints of caramel and new oak, well complemented by the thrilling grapefruit acidity and impressive length.
From vines aged between 40 and 80 years, this is a lightly wood-aged wine, with yellow fruits that go with the spicy toast. Full, ripe, and nicely cut with acidity, it has a creamy, smooth texture. Drink now.
Vitallis is a new "hidden gem" our buyers found in the Mâcon, where small producers fly under the radar. In classic Burgundian fashion, the Dutron family has been growing vines since 1835, and now owns some of the oldest and best parcels in the village of Fuissé in the Pouilly-Fuissé district. Our buyers happened upon the château during a trip to Burgundy last October, and it was quite evident upon their return that they’d found something special. Perhaps it was the haste with which the samples were chilled and opened, or the irrepressible smiles, but this was evidently a good breakthrough for our Burgundy buying team. In the glass, the wines live up to the hype: subtle, like any good white Burgundy, but complex, mineral-driven and poised. Since these grapes hail from “Vieilles Vignes,” or old vines aged 45-70 years old, the must is intensely concentrated in flavor. Denis Dutron uses all French oak, again with minimal new oak, and he also employs traditional “batonnage” practice, stirring the lees through the wine to create a richer textural feel that plays well off the intensity of the fruit. Overall a more intense and structured wine, the 2014 Vitallis Vieilles Vignes is a wine that is immediately intriguing, but will also reward a few years of cellaring. Natural fermentation, with aging in French oak (15% new oak).