2013 Umathum Zweigelt Burgenland
Wine & Spirits
Zweigelt in the mode of a Rhône syrah, this is dark and fragrant, the juicy purple fruit sparked by ample black-pepper notes. It feels vivid and fresh, with a just-pressed immediacy that makes it especially beguiling.
Lively nose combines raspberry, white pepper, eucalyptus and wild spices. At once supple and juicy, showing an herbal quality to its flavors of red fruits and licorice. An appealing nervous energy carries through to the finish of this elegantly balanced Zweigelt. Matured in large oak casks, it is Umathum’s calling card and a red that I like to drink. (JP)
With overtones of reduction, this wine needs a lot of air at first but then proceeds to show an elegant, supple and soft Zweigelt. There are welcome edges of white pepper and very supple, soft cherry fruit, creating elegance but no heaviness. This is a very good and smooth choice to partner subtle dishes.
Umathum has become known over the past few years for just plain getting more different rhythms, tunes and textures out of the good old Zweigelt bush than nearly anybody. He does this by means of extraordinarily careful and painstaking selection when planting his vineyards, watchful control of the crop size, and then detailed hand harvesting and selection. The wines then ferment with indigenous yeast, and are aged in large wooden barrels fashioned from Austrian oak.