2014 Siduri "Pisoni Vineyard" Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Maybe the best wine from Adam in 2014 is the 2014 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard. Giving up the classic minerality that's common from this site, it has lots of sweet black raspberry and violet nuances, medium-bodied depth and richness and a fresh, focused, elegant style on the palate. It showed more tannic structure with time in the glass, yet given the fruit and balance, I've no doubt it will be approachable on release. While recently sold to Kendall-Jackson, Siduri’s founder, Adam Lee, remains firmly onboard as winemaker and doesn’t have any plans of walking away soon. While it’s difficult to see the impact of the sale at the moment, I think Adam is making better wines today than he ever has.
Vivid ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet displays scents of fresh boysenberry, black raspberry and cola, with a sexy floral nuance gaining strength with aeration. Sweet and seamless in the mouth, showing very good heft and focus. Delivers impressive energy on the youthfully tannic finish, which hangs on with serious fruit-driven tenacity. The breadth of Adam Lee's vineyard sourcing makes him a valued source of information on Pinot Noir from Oregon to Santa Barbara County, but he is clearly most passionate about the Santa Lucia Highlands, whose vineyards "really helped to put Siduri on the map," as he put it. Here's another producer who started his career making flamboyant, super-fruity wines and has slowly "evolved to wanting to put out wines that have fruit plus complexity, not just fruit for fruit's sake."
*Two Stars* Although striking for its richness and the sense of fruity density that are the hallmarks of this renowned site, Siduri's latest Pisoni bottling is a slightly supple, exceptionally well-structured Pinot whose solidity and inklings of varietal velvet raise expectations of very good things ahead. That is not to say that it is in any way hidden or closed at the moment, but those willing to look past its admittedly delectable juiciness and allow it a chance to fully unfold will find that waiting for some three to five years was the far better course than hasty drinking.