2014 Leitz "Dragonstone" Riesling Rheingau
We’re down to 32 grams of residual sugar here. I write “down” because the level has kept decreasing annually for more than a decade now, and even so, the wine’s naturally high acidity – especially striking in this vintage – has never seemed excessive. Penetrating, bright and clear, this delivers lusciously juicy pear, pineapple and lime in a refreshingly sustained, lightly and mouthwateringly salt-tinged, if also phenolically slightly roughly finish. Considering its price and the enormous volume that now stands behind this bottling (all from estate fruit), quality remains admirable.
Extraordinarily aromatic, vigorous wines from a vintner who grows more commanding each vintage. This is the wine that once was called Rüdesheimer Drachenstein, and it’s the wine David Schildknecht said was the best Riesling value in the world, which is because Johannes sells it to us for much less than it’s worth. For a large-production wine this receives the same care in the vineyards and cellar that every Leitz wine receives.