2014 Wittmann Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs Rheinhessen
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Morstein GG is chalky and limey, but closer to the Kirchspiel than the Brunnenhäuschen at this early stadium. Subtle flavors of morels and porcini along with lime rind flavors lead to a dense, intense and refreshingly piquant palate. The 2014 is very pure, mineral, firmly structured and finesse-full. The finish is very persistent and displays lots of limes and chalky flavors in the extremely salty finish. Great potential.
The Westhofen Morstein seems the most vibrantly citrusy among Wittmann's 2014 GG bottlings. Its lemon-lime acidity is almost puckering, but cushioned by creamy textured layers of tangerine, grapefruit and yellow cherry flavor. It's a powerful, elegant wine with a deep mineral finish. Drinks well now but should intensify in minerality through 2020. (AI)
2013 and 2014 were challenging vintages for growers adhering to biodynamic viticulture, but Wittmann’s Morstein does not reflect those difficulties. On the contrary, adversity seems to have sharpened the focus and has produced a Grosses Gewächs with several distinctive layers. The customary generosity of fruit with its exotic nuances begins the Beguine of flavours, but never masks the contribution of a cool salty minerality. Maybe the body is a little tauter than it has been in warmer years, but this has only altered the structure, not the quality of the wine. Juicy acidity perpetuates the flow, tangy citrus peel adds zest and piquancy. 19/20 Points (MS)