2014 Argyros Assyrtiko Santorini
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Assyrtiko, the regular, screwcapped mid-level bottling, comes in at 13.5% alcohol. It is unoaked and sourced from 70-year-old vines. Showing beautifully in its youth, it does what it usually does of late: be fresh, pure and clean, with good depth for its status and tension on the finish. This has become a solid and very focused bottling on a consistent basis, often showing more of that steel and minerality than the upper-level bottlings, although most certainly not their longevity or power. This projects that transparent, tank-aged purity that makes me want to lean up on it in its youth all the time these days, granting that it will not stay at peak as long as the big boys. Still, in the right moment and at the right time, this might be the better pick. The upper level bottlings here (with varying degrees of oak) will hold up better to stronger foods, but when people start talking about the minerality and purity on Santorini, this is a good one to try. You'll see what they mean. This is another fine vintage and it is not without some stuffing in its own right. It may last a bit better than I think, but let's take that in stages. (MS)
Wine & Spirits
This is textbook, modern assyrtiko, clean and polished, the rasp of assyrtiko’s acidity echoing that of chalk-like minerality, holding the lemony fruit firm and taut. It feels sophisticated in its sleekness, powerful in its directness, and ready for a plate of fat langoustines.