2011 Cullen "Kevin John" Chardonnay Margaret River Western Australia (Biodynamic)
Made according to the biodynamic calendar from vine to glass. Estate-grown 36-year-old vines were whole bunch-pressed and wild yeast-fermented in French oak (one-third new). Has the usual Cullen magic, pitting very complex fruit against fine, taut acidity, yet making it appear the two were made for each other; the length of the wine is prodigious, its finesse equally extraordinary. Reached towards the end of a 100-wine tasting, I found myself retasting it when I didn't need to do so, and even committing the mortal tasting sin of swallowing some.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Aged seven months in French oak of which 33% is new oak, and 33% of the blend undergoes malolactic fermentation, the 2011 Kevin John Chardonnay gives pronounced citrus, lemon and grapefruit notes with hints of crushed stones, ginger and almonds. Very youthful, crisp and tightly-knit on the medium-bodied palate it has a silken texture and very long, mineral-laced finish. It should drink best 2015 to 2022+. 95+ Points (LPB)
Pale gold. Fresh pear and melon on the nose, with ginger, honeysuckle and mineral notes adding lift. Juicy, penetrating and focused, offering zesty orchard and citrus fruit flavors and suggestions of sea salt and bitter quinine. Shows an intriguing blend of richness and vivacity and finishes with outstanding clarity and length. This wine improved a lot with aeration, which bodes well for its cellaring potential. (JR)
***Cellar Selection*** Cullen's Kevin John remains one of Australia's classiest Chardonnays. The 2011 starts off with delicate scents of toasted almond and ripe pear, then develops strident citrus and tropical-fruit flavors. It's plump enough in the mouth to satisfy while remaining only medium bodied. The mouthwatering finish seems to last forever. Drink now–2020. (JC)
Fresh and lively, with juicy flavors of pear, peach and cream, mingling easily through the polished finish. Sneaks up on you, revealing surprising depth after starting off so pretty. Drink now through 2017. 25 cases imported. (HS, Web-2013)
Three blocks off Cullen vineyard selected in the winery. Whole-bunch basket pressed. Low solids. 2/3 through malo. 1/3 new oak. Normally all goes through malo, which usually starts before the alcoholic fermentation has quite finished. Lovely creamy mealy aroma, rich and full bodied with just a touch of toastiness and great lime acidity at the core. Really concentrated. Delicious but still just a pup and so much more to come. (JH)