2014 Trefethen "Estate" Napa Valley Dry Riesling
Waxy and aromatic in petrol, this stainless-steel-fermented white offers flavors of white flowers, green apple and lime around sizzling acidity. From the Main Ranch Vineyard, an estate property, it finishes high-pitched and lean, completely refreshing. (VB)
*One Star* It may start out as a bit of a minimalist in its tight, lightly varietal aromas, but it delivers more to like in the palate despite a chalky edge to its firm texture. Along the way, it blends peach fruitiness with grapefruity tightness and narrowness, and were it not for its long finish, we would probably have held it something short of full commendation. But length and balance suggest potential for better, and the wine will be well-served by allowing it to mature for a couple of years.
The Trefethen Riesling is a favorite among Riesling fans who know where to find the best California-grown versions of this noble varietal, but that's not the only reason that this family-run winery continues to grow and re-plant Riesling--they also love it themselves. And they've done the extra work it takes to make sure that vintage after vintage, this is no ho-hum California Riesling. The Trefethen family's Riesling is picked in several stages, to preserve both the crisp, citrusy acidity and the rich, tropical fruit flavors that it's capable of producing. Then, they ferment the wine with several different yeast strains that have been specifically chosen for the varietal. They bottle it early, preserving the fresh flavors. While in the bottle, it develops characteristic notes of mineral oil along with golden pear and lemon. The California Riesling fan club is small, but so is the price of admission; this bottle will make you glad you joined.