2010 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino (Elsewhere $65)
Menthol and eucalyptus notes shade the core of black cherry and plum in this broad, densely textured red. Balanced, in a powerful style, with dusty, mouthcoating tannins on the lingering finish. Needs grilled beef. Best from 2019 through 2032. (BS)
Lots of dried citrus, meat and earthy aromas follow through to a full body, round tannins and a tangy fruit and juicy finish. A slightly dusty and austere texture but a generous and decadent Brunello. Better in 2015.
Aromas of ripe berry, cooking spice, tilled soil, truffle, leather and a balsamic note all come together in the glass. The concentrated palate shows stewed plum, lightly toasted oak, mocha and espresso alongside tightly wound, teeth-coating tannins. Give this time to come together. Drink 2018–2025. (KO)
The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is a dark, powerful wine. Black cherry, plum, game, smoke, tobacco and earthiness abound, but there is more than enough depth to balance some of the wilder, gamier undertones. Overall, the 2010 is a bit rough around the edges, but also intriguing in its own way. (AG)