By: Greg St. Clair | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 5/6/2015 | Send Email
Aglianico has always scared me a bit, the ultra-powerful tannins, brooding nature of these wines has always made me a bit circumspect about any near term drinking. Enter Elena Fucci. Elena’s wines are from Basilicata (the instep of Italy’s boot) on soils from an extinct volcano called Vulture. It is really a back-woodsy area, yet from this lonely outpost this wine shows such an incredible grace, such a natural flow without losing any of the powerful presence of Aglianico Elena has coaxed an inner beauty forward. Beauty is not a word I’ve ever used to describe Aglianico before but the balance, confidence and presence this wine has is just incredible. The nose is subtle, not overt; it has more of an earthy presence, wisps of smoke in the countryside, earth, stone and a savory nature. Where the wine truly shines is on the palate, it doesn’t just lay there it embraces you, a warm, close hug, supple, yet not fat or loose it seems fitted. The wine gains flavor in a slow, growing way, not in waves but more of a welling up, as flavors of stone and earth seem to bubble forth, hints of smoke, Mediterranean herbs and dried plums come forward as well. Its texture is so embracing, supple; it makes you feel in the presence of something truly important but it isn’t as if this wine isn’t Aglianico. Structure, depth and real age-ability make this Aglianico del Vulture truly something to search out.
Drink from 2015 to 2030