2009 Carlisle "Papera Ranch" Russian River Valley Zinfandel
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Opaque purple. Sexy aromas of blackberry, smoky herbs, rose oil and licorice are supported by a lively mineral undertone. Plush and expansive, with a pliant, silky texture to the intensely spicy black and blue fruit and violet pastille flavors. This shows excellent concentration and gets into every nook and cranny of the palate. Finishes sweet, with outstanding persistence and firm tannic grip, echoing the blue fruit note. (ST)
Jammy black raspberry and smoked pepper aromas lead to dense yet zesty cherry, sage and anise flavors that still carry ripe but firm tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2017. (TF)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2009 Zinfandel Papera Ranch is unique in that the vineyard was planted with 100% Zinfandel, which was quite unusual in 1934. Black cherries, plums, tobacco and new leather inform this plush, deeply satisfying Zinfandel. There is plenty of energy, depth and sheer power in the glass. Sweet candied notes are layered into the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. (AG)
Intense, deeply flavored and in no way a shy and retiring effort, this is a wine for unrepentant fans of brash, very full-flavored Zins that make no excuses for ripeness. It fights with heat and it verges on excess, yet it so rich and well-appointed with keenly defined fruit that it manages to work quite well in the style. The faint-hearted need not apply.
Fans of DeLoach Zinfandels from the 1990s may remember Papera. Planted in 1934, the old, head-trained vineyard survived the decades in this "sweet spot" area for Russian River Valley Zinfandel.